I'd worry more about it being a Dodge then the ticking
For the win...
For the win...
Burned valve.
I used to own an '09 Ram.
There is a TSB for exhaust manifold bolts which causes a ticking sound on hemis.
I had to have them replaced two separate times.
It should be covered under your power train warranty, if those are the cause.
There is a TSB for exhaust manifold bolts which causes a ticking sound on hemis.
I had to have them replaced two separate times.
It should be covered under your power train warranty, if those are the cause.
Probably the valve lifters. Any good mechanic can adjust the valves and at 60k if it's never been done it's probably needed.
I will check into that should my checklist get that far. that is good info.
copy. this may be the last thing on my list.
and 71buick....I will try that first and go from there whilst taking excat_56's advice about brand.
my plan is to try one thing at a time and see what works.
as far as frequency...I could do it more frequently, but my owners manual says 6k, so I'm under the limit as it is now.
AJ, drive the friggin wheels off that thing and buy more guns! 60-70k is where i usually BUY a truck. its going to hold its value as a truck so just enjoy the extra cash in your pocket
Switching brands doesn't matter. If you run a synthetic, you can wait 10k between changes and be fine, synthetic oil does not break down like conventional oils do, that is the issue. Not that I suggest running it that long without changing the filter at 5-6k, but if you are going to change the filter, you might as well change the oil. the 3,000 mile marker no longer applies.
Piston slap is fairly common in the newer engines. Does the noise subside once it warns up?
Do this:
Get a can of seafoam.
Dump about 5oz of it in your crankcase.
Dump the rest in your fuel tank that is hopefully about 1/3 to 1/2 full. (10 gallons or so)
Go for a drive.
Change your oil and use a full synthetic 5W20. Note that there are only 2 truly synthetic oils formulated in the U.S. They are Amsoil and Mobil 1 Extended Performance. Not the Mobil 1 supersyn stuff or whatever they are calling it these days, spring $1 a quart more for the Extended Performance. It's worth that extra dollar. All the others are just hydrocracked petroleum oil. The imported synthetics like Royal Purple might be true full synthetics, but they are very overpriced and give you nothing over Mobil 1 or Amsoil.
Use a good filter. Purolator Pure One, top tier Wix, or Mobil 1. The old saying goes "you only get what you pay for", that's particularly true of oil filters.
Like said before you can extend your drain interval to 10K pretty easily. I don't even give a thought to running mine as high as 15K with Amsoil and Amsoil filters.
If it still ticks after that, fear not. Just drive it...
Get a can of seafoam.
Dump about 5oz of it in your crankcase.
Dump the rest in your fuel tank that is hopefully about 1/3 to 1/2 full. (10 gallons or so)
Go for a drive.
Change your oil and use a full synthetic 5W20. Note that there are only 2 truly synthetic oils formulated in the U.S. They are Amsoil and Mobil 1 Extended Performance. Not the Mobil 1 supersyn stuff or whatever they are calling it these days, spring $1 a quart more for the Extended Performance. It's worth that extra dollar. All the others are just hydrocracked petroleum oil. The imported synthetics like Royal Purple might be true full synthetics, but they are very overpriced and give you nothing over Mobil 1 or Amsoil.
Use a good filter. Purolator Pure One, top tier Wix, or Mobil 1. The old saying goes "you only get what you pay for", that's particularly true of oil filters.
Like said before you can extend your drain interval to 10K pretty easily. I don't even give a thought to running mine as high as 15K with Amsoil and Amsoil filters.
If it still ticks after that, fear not. Just drive it...
