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The two pics in my previous post aren't showing up for some reason (at least to me, links seem to be broken), so I'm posting them again.
I did notice one difference between the Nitescout P226 and the old Stoeger .22 Luger. Look carefully at the two pics below. See the two projections at the breech of the P226's barrel? Then look at the pic of the old Stoeger .22 Luger that doesn't have those two projections. I theorize they most likely are an extra cartridge guide to aid the cartridge in chambering, but am not 100% sure. If so, that might be a good thing since the Stoeger .22 Lugers are picky about ammo and an extra cartridge guide to better facilitate chambering would be a welcome addition. Except for the markings on the side of the pistol, that's the only difference I can see between the NiteScout P226 and the old Stoeger .22 Lugers. Otherwise, it appears to be an exact copy.
(Later edit for info).....I contacted Nitescout and did ascertain that my thoughts were correct. That projection at the breech area is a cartridge guide that further helps funnel the cartridge into the breech. The old Stoeger .22 Lugers did not have that and it is an innovation by Nitescout to the old Stoeger .22 Luger design. No doubt it will aid feeding better.
Below, NiteScout P226 .22LR Parabellum breech. See those two cartridge guide projections on the breech just forward of the mag follower? That is a Nitescout innovation to the old Stoeger design.
Below, see the breech of the old Stoeger .22 Luger that doesn't have those two cartridge guide projections. Except for that and the difference in barrel lengths, the Nitescout and Stoeger are identical. Kudos to Nitescout for resurrecting the old .22 Stoeger Luger design and then adding their innovative cartridge guide to further aid feeding. That should cut down drastically on the jams that some of the Stoeger's had without having to polish the feed ramp and micro chamfer the edge of the breech face as I had to do on my Stoeger's to eliminate jamming (and even now they feed fine with round nose but STILL sometimes jam (but infrequently) using hollow points). That Nitescout cartridge guide should eliminate that problem entirely since the guide won't allow the nose of the bullet to come into contact with the edge of the breech where it could catch on the lead tip and jam like on the old Stoegers. Nice innovation.
Here's my two aluminum frame Stoegers (5.5" barrels) and my one steel frame Stoeger (4.5" barrel) 22LR Lugers. (Same West German alpine cap I was wearing in video).
There are several ways to tell if your Stoeger .22 Luger is a steel frame or an aluminum frame. 1. Test the frame with a magnet. If it sticks it's a steel frame. 2. The aluminum frame ones had the safety marked in raised letters as "F" and "S". The steel frame ones (generally) had no raised letters and instead used a green depressed dot for safe and a red depressed dot for fire.
Below, see the difference in safety markings. Aluminum frame on bottom with raised "F" and "S" and steel frame on top with just a depressed red and green dots.
However; I have found that is not always the case. Sometimes there were no safety markings of any kind as in this below steel frame Stoeger Luger. So if you are looking at one that has no safety markings, test it with a magnet to see if it is a steel frame or aluminum frame (but you can usually tell by the grain and look of the metal if it's aluminum or steel).
Below, .22LR Stoeger Luger in steel frame but no safety markings nor dots of any kind. Seems some came from the factory that way.
.
I did notice one difference between the Nitescout P226 and the old Stoeger .22 Luger. Look carefully at the two pics below. See the two projections at the breech of the P226's barrel? Then look at the pic of the old Stoeger .22 Luger that doesn't have those two projections. I theorize they most likely are an extra cartridge guide to aid the cartridge in chambering, but am not 100% sure. If so, that might be a good thing since the Stoeger .22 Lugers are picky about ammo and an extra cartridge guide to better facilitate chambering would be a welcome addition. Except for the markings on the side of the pistol, that's the only difference I can see between the NiteScout P226 and the old Stoeger .22 Lugers. Otherwise, it appears to be an exact copy.
(Later edit for info).....I contacted Nitescout and did ascertain that my thoughts were correct. That projection at the breech area is a cartridge guide that further helps funnel the cartridge into the breech. The old Stoeger .22 Lugers did not have that and it is an innovation by Nitescout to the old Stoeger .22 Luger design. No doubt it will aid feeding better.
Below, NiteScout P226 .22LR Parabellum breech. See those two cartridge guide projections on the breech just forward of the mag follower? That is a Nitescout innovation to the old Stoeger design.
Below, see the breech of the old Stoeger .22 Luger that doesn't have those two cartridge guide projections. Except for that and the difference in barrel lengths, the Nitescout and Stoeger are identical. Kudos to Nitescout for resurrecting the old .22 Stoeger Luger design and then adding their innovative cartridge guide to further aid feeding. That should cut down drastically on the jams that some of the Stoeger's had without having to polish the feed ramp and micro chamfer the edge of the breech face as I had to do on my Stoeger's to eliminate jamming (and even now they feed fine with round nose but STILL sometimes jam (but infrequently) using hollow points). That Nitescout cartridge guide should eliminate that problem entirely since the guide won't allow the nose of the bullet to come into contact with the edge of the breech where it could catch on the lead tip and jam like on the old Stoegers. Nice innovation.
Here's my two aluminum frame Stoegers (5.5" barrels) and my one steel frame Stoeger (4.5" barrel) 22LR Lugers. (Same West German alpine cap I was wearing in video).
There are several ways to tell if your Stoeger .22 Luger is a steel frame or an aluminum frame. 1. Test the frame with a magnet. If it sticks it's a steel frame. 2. The aluminum frame ones had the safety marked in raised letters as "F" and "S". The steel frame ones (generally) had no raised letters and instead used a green depressed dot for safe and a red depressed dot for fire.
Below, see the difference in safety markings. Aluminum frame on bottom with raised "F" and "S" and steel frame on top with just a depressed red and green dots.
However; I have found that is not always the case. Sometimes there were no safety markings of any kind as in this below steel frame Stoeger Luger. So if you are looking at one that has no safety markings, test it with a magnet to see if it is a steel frame or aluminum frame (but you can usually tell by the grain and look of the metal if it's aluminum or steel).
Below, .22LR Stoeger Luger in steel frame but no safety markings nor dots of any kind. Seems some came from the factory that way.
.
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