Gear thread? Talk to me about safes!

[djcorrell]

Bear and Armor Vault both make great safes in Oklahoma. The steel thickness is superior to safes that are much more expensive. However, i do believe they start at a much higher price than the stated budget.

If you go the Job Box route, please buy the absolutely best locks you can find that will fit, probably from a lock smith. Get them keyed the same for convenience. The two locks could run $100, just know that will be the week point in the system. However, they are 10 times better than a $500 Cannon, see the video "Security on Sale". I have seen one of these cheap ((<$500) safes opened with a $15 pry bar in under a minute. That's what $500 gets you. Better off hiding them in the attic.

 

[djcorrell]

I wish we had a safe forum so some of this advice does not get rehashed over again. When you bolt down a safe, set it in place, start your holes, move it, finish your holes, measure your slab, get the appropriate anchors in the correct length (a little longer is ok), set it in place and align with the holes (giant screwdriver) install anchors with big fat washers (or a piece of bar stock with the appropriate holes), suck them up and call it good.
Drill all the way through the slab, I can not stress this enough; if something does not work right, this beats moving it to a new location or not having enough bolts. If they break, beat them into the sand under the slab and get another one. You can do all of the drilling with a big safe in place, with a vacuum, and a creative way to measure the slab. Getting the correct length is easier than cutting off the bolts in the safe.

RE: MrGlock, I would probably go the fireboard (not drywall) route, nice clean install. This can even be retrofitted after the fact if budget is an issue. Now if I had a free welding blanket, and was on a budget, the interior could be retrofitted for sure.

 

[Mr.Glock]

RE: MrGlock, I would probably go the fireboard (not drywall) route, nice clean install. This can even be retrofitted after the fact if budget is an issue. Now if I had a free welding blanket, and was on a budget, the interior could be retrofitted for sure.

You mean fireboard in lieu of the welding blankets? I would agree, much cleaner and less hassle. Your right on about not using sheetrock. I have owned both Bear and Armor vaults, they are tough, but hated the keys and I wanted to down size to three smaller safes to ease in moving them. I have a Two American Security's and one Liberty now. The American Security's weigh in at close to 900lbs each and are much easier to move than the humongous Armor Vaults I had and the huge over 6ft tall Bear I had. I forget what the Bear weighed, but the Armor Vault was well over 1000lbs.


And I cannot agree with more on the drilling all the way through the slab, this a some good advice, it sure beats moving them as stated and having to grind off the anchors. And I might add that if your setting one over carpet, to cut out the carpet where the anchors are going through before setting the safe over the carpet and then drilling, it will save the carpet from winding up and giving you fits when drilling. I have set all my safes where I wanted them, and marked the holes with a permanent marker, moved the safe, cut a two by two out around the holes, drill and shop vac the holes and then re set the safe. And again, drill all the way through the concrete.

Oh and don't forget your electric for your humidity rod and lights before setting in place and bolting down!!

The welding blankets do work, I have made a few House Fires where they were used to protect and they will work, you suffer some water damage but not heat.

 

[djcorrell]

Just saw this:

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/spo/4846043402.html

Might fit the bill.

 

[maat]

I kept an eye out on craigslist. Eventually, I ran into a great deal at Walmart on a clearance. Paid 400.00 for my canon safari 24 gun safe.

 

[ParkingLot]

You can get a Liberty Revolution 12 for $499 on their website.