I know a guy who threw a ported rifle (not Magna Port) across the top of his buddy's hood and when he pulled the trigger it cracked the windshield.
Jpt
I know a guy who threw a ported rifle (not Magna Port) across the top of his buddy's hood and when he pulled the trigger it cracked the windshield.
Jpt
Some interesting experiences mentioned.
I've had a 2" barreled 41 Magnum full lug (snub) N-Frame S&W for many (about 20+) years, with two small magnaport slots near the end, at the top of the barrel. It works very well.
In our circle, several had similar big-bore concealed carry snubs built from
N-Frame 44 specials, 41 magnums, even a few on 44 magnums. We wanted the concealed firepower of the big cartridges, but had to be able to shoot it accurately. And so, magnaporting was necessary.
Have shot several other pistols and rifles that had been magnaported, but have never seen any with magnaported slots below the barrel midline, instead they were always at the top quarter to minimize muzzle climb.
It seems unlikely that such top vents would cause anyone to scorch the paint on the hood of a car/truck.
Magnaporting is not a thread-on muzzle break or flash suppressor.
Since this is supposed to be the "rifle" section, I would offer that if you are even thinking about doing something to reduce the felt recoil of your rifle, then do it.
I routinely shoot unported .308Win, 7mmRM, and .300WM, but the stocks are well designed on these tactical rifles.
Some people buy "hunting" rifles based on light weight without realizing that the stock might be less functional than a fence post when used with their chosen cartridge.
A good gunsmith may be able to thread your barrel and install a good break (like a Vais for example), to turn your hard-kicking .322 MuleMag into a decent shooting rifle.
I've had a 2" barreled 41 Magnum full lug (snub) N-Frame S&W for many (about 20+) years, with two small magnaport slots near the end, at the top of the barrel. It works very well.
In our circle, several had similar big-bore concealed carry snubs built from
N-Frame 44 specials, 41 magnums, even a few on 44 magnums. We wanted the concealed firepower of the big cartridges, but had to be able to shoot it accurately. And so, magnaporting was necessary.
Have shot several other pistols and rifles that had been magnaported, but have never seen any with magnaported slots below the barrel midline, instead they were always at the top quarter to minimize muzzle climb.
It seems unlikely that such top vents would cause anyone to scorch the paint on the hood of a car/truck.
Magnaporting is not a thread-on muzzle break or flash suppressor.
Since this is supposed to be the "rifle" section, I would offer that if you are even thinking about doing something to reduce the felt recoil of your rifle, then do it.
I routinely shoot unported .308Win, 7mmRM, and .300WM, but the stocks are well designed on these tactical rifles.
Some people buy "hunting" rifles based on light weight without realizing that the stock might be less functional than a fence post when used with their chosen cartridge.
A good gunsmith may be able to thread your barrel and install a good break (like a Vais for example), to turn your hard-kicking .322 MuleMag into a decent shooting rifle.
A PROPERLY INSTALLED muzzle break doesn't affect accuracy, and, some are removable. Install the break when practicing, remove the break and install a thread protector when hunting. Have a GOOD recoil pad installed.
A threaded brake is a good idea. Then if/when Oklahoma allows sound supressors for hunting, you'll already be threaded!
Jpt
Jpt
Some of the Magna Ports have "relief" holes drilled all the way around the circumfrence of the barrel in order to displace more recoil. I have only shot one w/ a "top 3/4" muzzle break, and I do liiiiiike them!
OK, you asked for input:
1. Will it degrade accuracy or velocity? No, they're right about that.
2. Will it reduce felt recoil? Meeehhhhhhh, maaaaybe just a smidgeon, maybe not; certainly not enough to make it worth the tradeoff (see below)
3. Will it reduce muzzle flip? Yes, it will, but this is a turnbolt, not a semi, right? So you have to cycle the action anyway. So you actually want a bit of muzzle flip, to allow you to cycle the action in a bit of a downward and back fashion instead of straight back, which I find a faster / more efficient cycling of the action than straight back. So the ONE thing that it will do (reduce muzzle flip) is arguably a negative not a positive on anything but a semi-auto.
4. (the big one) Is this a hunting rifle? If yes, then the last thing on earth you want to do is put a loudener on it. You just have to ask yourself do you, or do you not, want to be one of those old men who drive their spouses crazy by having to say "what, what, what" 100 times a day?
If it's not for hunting, then I guess marginally it may be worth it. If for hunting, then not only no, but hell no.
YMMV.
1. Will it degrade accuracy or velocity? No, they're right about that.
2. Will it reduce felt recoil? Meeehhhhhhh, maaaaybe just a smidgeon, maybe not; certainly not enough to make it worth the tradeoff (see below)
3. Will it reduce muzzle flip? Yes, it will, but this is a turnbolt, not a semi, right? So you have to cycle the action anyway. So you actually want a bit of muzzle flip, to allow you to cycle the action in a bit of a downward and back fashion instead of straight back, which I find a faster / more efficient cycling of the action than straight back. So the ONE thing that it will do (reduce muzzle flip) is arguably a negative not a positive on anything but a semi-auto.
4. (the big one) Is this a hunting rifle? If yes, then the last thing on earth you want to do is put a loudener on it. You just have to ask yourself do you, or do you not, want to be one of those old men who drive their spouses crazy by having to say "what, what, what" 100 times a day?
If it's not for hunting, then I guess marginally it may be worth it. If for hunting, then not only no, but hell no.
YMMV.
My only ported weapon is a Browning BPS stalker 10 ga. The porting allows a quicker secon shot, but throws $h*t in the shooter's face. Gotta have eye protection (good in any case).
Fellow hunters don't like it, and now that there is better non toxic shot, I have gone back to my old 870 for most social occasions.
I still use the 10 with steel when hunting geese alone and I use it on sandhill cranes. For cranes I use 2 and a half ounces of #4 buck, and even with a 10 pound gun, the recoil is noticable, but it'll kill a crane at 80 yards, even though crane feathers would make a pretty good substitute for kevlar.
Fellow hunters don't like it, and now that there is better non toxic shot, I have gone back to my old 870 for most social occasions.
I still use the 10 with steel when hunting geese alone and I use it on sandhill cranes. For cranes I use 2 and a half ounces of #4 buck, and even with a 10 pound gun, the recoil is noticable, but it'll kill a crane at 80 yards, even though crane feathers would make a pretty good substitute for kevlar.
Have you tried shooting cranes w/a .22-250? It sure makes 'em hump up!
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