Kerosene is considered #1 fuel oil, while diesel fuel is #2 fuel oil. If I remember right, diesel is just refined more. Again, with those, #2 diesel will gel in cold temperatures, so when I used to deliver fuels, we'd go around to the farmer's tanks and create a mix so their tractors and such wouldn't gel up in the winter. #1 diesel (kerosene) is what we blended with the #2 to get a lower gel point. We'd usually mix 40% kerosene with 60% diesel.
This was a timely thread for me. Working on an older Marlin 94 I got on the cheap because of functioning issues. Found a lot of rust in the magazine. Beginning to think it's where the previous owner liked to store salt water...the amount of rust makes about that much sense. Some people. But I digress.
The plug screw would not budge. Liquid Wrench...nada. PB blaster....nada. Tried some Kano Aerokroil on advice. Out on the first try after a 10 minute soak. Now it could be that it took application of all three over along period of time but it sure seems the Aerokroil was the bomb-digity. I keep WD-40 around but never bother with it as a penetrating oil or gun oil.
The plug screw would not budge. Liquid Wrench...nada. PB blaster....nada. Tried some Kano Aerokroil on advice. Out on the first try after a 10 minute soak. Now it could be that it took application of all three over along period of time but it sure seems the Aerokroil was the bomb-digity. I keep WD-40 around but never bother with it as a penetrating oil or gun oil.
I worked in a DX gas station after school and sometimes had to wash an oil company car. we put about 10 gallons of hot water in a 30 gallon drum, added a box of Tide laundry soap (about the size of a cereal box) then a gallon of diesel.
We used a lot of Break Free in one of the machine shops where I worked.
https://www.amazon.com/BreakFree-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B07CHX9G64
Since I retired I found Aero Kroil. That and a torch always gets it loose for me.
Kerosene is a lighter oil than diesel in the cracking process and refined more. Kerosene will basically evaporate in a short period of time while diesel will remain fluid for a long time. The fact you mixed kerosene with #2 pretty much proves the point.
We used #3 which is considered bunker oil in a diesel engine power plant I used to work at right after high school. The fuel tank had to be heated to keep it fluid enough to send through the injectors. Asphalt is the next lowest in the cracking process below bunker oil.
Kroil works. I've used it on tractors that had sat in fields for 50 years. You just have to wait and let it creep on really frozen parts. I've seen it work on track torch wheels that were engulfed in flame.
That's the key. Kroil will wick in where others won't but it takes time.
X 1000......I also worked at a DX after high school. On Saturdays, the oil field pickups would come in for a hand wash. Had mud 2 inches thick, and as bad on the inside. I had to wash them with an air tank sprayer and Tide soap.Seems like we added kerosene. Also had to wait on customers and fill up cars. Those were the days....
Another great example of why I enjoy OSA. There are some pretty sharp folks around here. Great information!
You can do a decent creep test with a few rusty bolts of the same size.
Spray or pour a small amount of penetrating oil (1/8" deep or so) in a small container (bottle-cap, jar-lid, or whatever) and stick the threaded end of a rusty bolt in it (hold it there for a bit). Its rate and height of creep up the bolt is a pretty good indicator of penetrating ability for comparison with other oils.
A salesman came by a trucking company shop were I worked as a teenager, and was showing how well his penetrating oil worked with the creep test. My oldest brother was foreman, and he had the guy do the same test with Liquid Wrench.
Both performed about the same. And the Liquid Wrench was cheaper.
