Problems with ammo for a S&W .357...

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Glock 'em down

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Now ya see? :ugh2: THIS is exactly why I preach against trigger jobs and such. The only place where a trigger job or any other modification that makes a "smooth" trigger is acceptable is on a race gun. Then, if you have this happen, you only lose points...NOT your life! :yikes2:

For what it's worth, if you ever are faced with an armed encounter, how smooth your trigger pull is will be the LAST of your worries!

Click on my signature and read Rule #9. :thumb:

I say get that wheelie back to factory specs and LIVE with the stout trigger pull. ;)

I'm glad you discovered this on the range instead of on the street. :bigeye:
 

shortgrass

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Just a note, the strain screw is meant to be seated down tight. It was never intended to be used to lessen trigger pull.

A+++++++++++ to that. My old PPC revolvers have some real slick DA trigger pulls (I'm Ron Powers trained) but they aren't my self defense guns either. Seems like factory custom guns are just that, factory. Under the constraints of time and profit they, alot of the time, aren't as custom as those done by a "real" custom gunsmith. Again, just my 2 cents.
 

Shadowrider

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Isn't the 686 SSR meant to be a semi race gun?
SSR = Stock Service Revolver

And this from S&W' s site:

"The Smith & Wesson Pro Series are the next step up from the production line while still remaining true to "Stock". Bringing competition specifications and features to factory models, the Pro Series offer that ready-to-go package while still maintaining production line integrity."

So I guess it's stock, but it's not stock. :scratch:
 

Glock 'em down

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SSR = Stock Service Revolver

And this from S&W' s site:

"The Smith & Wesson Pro Series are the next step up from the production line while still remaining true to "Stock". Bringing competition specifications and features to factory models, the Pro Series offer that ready-to-go package while still maintaining production line integrity."

So I guess it's stock, but it's not stock. :scratch:

It sounds as if it's "stockness" has been compromised by some jackass with a Dremel and an idea. :grumble:

Seriously. If you're gonna tote that thing, run - don't walk, to a QUALIFIED smithy or get it back to S&W to restore it to stock.
 

JWE

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One of my most embarrassing moments of my life happened like this. To cut the story short, here's probably the solution, if you shoot your wheel gun as much as I do


On the cylinder, clean like crazy underneath the extractor. Don't just get a Q-Tip and wipe, I mean get a brush and scrub. After a good scrubbing it removes all the carbon build up, then wipe it out, down to the last smudge. Literally leave the area inspection ready.

The way it was explained to me by an uncle who worked as a gunsmith for 40 years, was the carbon builds over time under the extractor in the cylinder and acts as a cushion, when the firing pin strikes the primer, resulting in a softened blow. Therefore that could explain, why some of the rounds didn't go off, but had an indention in them.

Same thing happened to me on my S&W Mod 19 that's been worked up. After I did the mentioned cleaning, it worked great and I felt like a dumba$$.
 

boomermet

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One of my most embarrassing moments of my life happened like this. To cut the story short, here's probably the solution, if you shoot your wheel gun as much as I do


On the cylinder, clean like crazy underneath the extractor. Don't just get a Q-Tip and wipe, I mean get a brush and scrub. After a good scrubbing it removes all the carbon build up, then wipe it out, down to the last smudge. Literally leave the area inspection ready.

The way it was explained to me by an uncle who worked as a gunsmith for 40 years, was the carbon builds over time under the extractor in the cylinder and acts as a cushion, when the firing pin strikes the primer, resulting in a softened blow. Therefore that could explain, why some of the rounds didn't go off, but had an indention in them.

Same thing happened to me on my S&W Mod 19 that's been worked up. After I did the mentioned cleaning, it worked great and I felt like a dumba$$.
Ok., did that...last time when I cleaned it a put a drop of oil on the extractor rod on each side of the cylinder...This time I didn't. just shot the #9 in there and then used a brush and scrub it...Use the bore snake on the bore. gonna try the same ammo again with some federal if i can get it...
 

grwd

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Now ya see? :ugh2: THIS is exactly why I preach against trigger jobs and such. The only place where a trigger job or any other modification that makes a "smooth" trigger is acceptable is on a race gun. Then, if you have this happen, you only lose points...NOT your life! :yikes2:

For what it's worth, if you ever are faced with an armed encounter, how smooth your trigger pull is will be the LAST of your worries!

Click on my signature and read Rule #9. :thumb:

I say get that wheelie back to factory specs and LIVE with the stout trigger pull. ;)

I'm glad you discovered this on the range instead of on the street. :bigeye:


Ah quiet, you jabroni!;)

The SSR is a stock factory gun, and it doesnt have a trigger job, just some factory polishing. And I guarrantee that if it doesnt set off any kind of primers, then is needs to go back to SW, cause theres a warrantee issue.
 

shortgrass

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Now ya see? :ugh2: THIS is exactly why I preach against trigger jobs and such. The only place where a trigger job or any other modification that makes a "smooth" trigger is acceptable is on a race gun. Then, if you have this happen, you only lose points...NOT your life! :yikes2:

For what it's worth, if you ever are faced with an armed encounter, how smooth your trigger pull is will be the LAST of your worries!

Click on my signature and read Rule #9. :thumb:

I say get that wheelie back to factory specs and LIVE with the stout trigger pull. ;)

I'm glad you discovered this on the range instead of on the street. :bigeye:

I agree with GLOCKUM 100%, a tricked-out firearm shouldn't be your self-defense gun. I've built many slick 1911's and S&W PPC Revolvers over the past 16 years, that are 100% reliable, but they have no place as your self-defense handgun. If you are forced into a position where you are defending yourself you won't even notice the factory trigger pull. Self-defense gun, target gun, two different things.
 

boomermet

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I agree with GLOCKUM 100%, a tricked-out firearm shouldn't be your self-defense gun. I've built many slick 1911's and S&W PPC Revolvers over the past 16 years, that are 100% reliable, but they have no place as your self-defense handgun. If you are forced into a position where you are defending yourself you won't even notice the factory trigger pull. Self-defense gun, target gun, two different things.[/QUOTe

This is the first gun I have ever owned so I wouldn't know a target gun from a self defense as to how the trigger pulls..Usually a mechanical malfunction in any kind of machinery is caused by some other force distrubing its normal or designed for function..I wouldn't think that ammo would do this, but this gun is practically new, purchased this summer some time with only about 500 or less rounds shot thru it...The action feels good to me, but I do see your point. The times it has misfired has been from the cocked position so I don't know if this has anything to do with full trigger pull. I am going to try the ammo bit and maybe call S&W before I send it in...
 

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