Smith & Wesson 357 Mag Information?

[Droff]

Hey everyone.

For a little background, I'm quite new to pistols, just started researching and buying, so I don't know a lot about them, although I've shot them since I was a kid, it's just been very sporadic. I've taken a CC class and have submitted paperwork for a license, seems to be no hiccups so far. I've purchased an M&P9c as well as a Sig P238, both planned as carry guns (Sig for the wife). We've shot both guns before buying and liked the feel of them and how they handle.

I've been trying to find a reasonably priced S&W .357 revolver with a 4" barrel, I've figured either a model 65 or model 686, I've read the 686 is a heavier gun (bigger frame), but either one would work for me, it's going to be my home defense gun, not carry. I'd like to stay with a 4" barrel either way. I keep seeing a lot -1, -2, -3, etc on the end of models, not sure what this designates and haven't ran across a good explanation. Any suggestions where this is all laid out?

Also, are there other S&W .357 revolver models to consider? It seems as if .357 and .38 are somewhat interchangeable and I see a lot of model numbers thrown around.

I've not seen anything under $475, anywhere. Seems to be the going price for used one? I could go $500, but I'd want an awful nice gun for that.

Can you find any deals at gun shows at the fairgrounds?

I've considered other brands - Taurus, Rossi or Ruger, but either of those can be sketchy from what I've been able read through. Not stuck on .357, but don't want to go any lower. I am stuck on a revolver for the house though.

Any input is appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Johnny]

The different dash numbers denote model changes to the revolvers. Here is a link that explains what the models changes were and what year they took place.

http://www.handloads.com/misc/Smith.Model.Changes.asp

You can't go wrong with a 586 or it's stainless twin the 686. They are solid wheel guns. A nice one is going to run closer to $600. In my opinion for what you are looking to spend I would chase down a ruger gp100. They are a freaking tank. Comparable in size to the 686. They can usually be had for 450 to 500. The 686 is an L frame gun which is slightly larger that the k frame smiths. There were some problems with the K frames shooting the 125 grain loads. The high power/velocity loads caused some of the forcing cones to crack on the k frames but this supposedly after 1000's of full power loads. Smith developed the k frame to strengthen this area.

From what I read ruger developed the gp100 in response to smith beefing up their line. I have a 681 which is the fixed sight version of the 686. It is a super sweet gun an perfect for home defense. The 586/686 have adjustable sights. The trigger on the ruger is not quite as nice as the smith but they still are not bad. Either on of these guns would be my recommendation. By for what the going rates are I dont feel the smith is $150 better than the ruger. Welcome to the forum.

 

[Talacker]

Ruger sp101.

 

[Droff]

The different dash numbers denote model changes to the revolvers. Here is a link that explains what the models changes were and what year they took place.

http://www.handloads.com/misc/Smith.Model.Changes.asp

Thanks for the link, that explains things a little more concise as in what I'm actually looking at when I see an ad.

I've looked into the GP100 and the SP101. Initially it was going to be either one of these or an S&W, but kept reading more and more good stuff on an S&W. I may have to revisit the Ruger's but they still aren't inexpensive, just less than the S&W.
Now to find a couple to check out.
Thanks.

 

[Shadowrider]

Stick with Ruger or S&W. You get great quality guns with either. The others you mention range from just meh if you are lucky to just crap.

GP100 Ruger or 586/686 S&W for magnums. They will both take lots and lots of full house magnum loads without worry.

 

[ssgrock3]

a smith model 65 can still be found used for well under your $450. Might have to be patient, but they are great guns.

a ruger blackhawk is a fun shooter also if you want a single action.

 

[zipty6]

If you can afford the price difference, go with the Smith.

I've owned a Ruger GP100 and an SP101. I sold them both. They are built like tanks, but that is not always a good thing. They look and feel indestructible, but the trigger leaves much to be desired. Two years later, I bought a a Smith & Wesson. This occurred after realizing that it wasn't double action triggers that bother me. It was Ruger double action triggers that bother me. I'll be picking up my second Smith & Wesson revolver Monday night, a 3" 686 plus.

 

[Kid Glock]

If you're going to be firing proof loads, get the ruger. Otherwise I'd prefer a S&W.

 

[Buzzdraw]

I think you'll want a 3-4" barrel gun, not shorter or longer.

Of the guns mentioned, I'm most partial to a S&W 686-3. The -3 has all the necessary improvements without the later "improvements" found in later dashes; i.e. internal lock system, MIM action parts, softer heat treat on wear surfaces, etc. The -3 will stand up to more shooting than you are likely to do in a lifetime, including full .357 magnums. I've shot way in excess of 30,000 +P .38's out of my used -3 with no discernible wear. It was used when I got it, so no telling how many magnums went down it; it was a duty gun belonging to a LE who actually shot his guns more than just required for qualification.

A Ruger GP 100 will stand up well too. It's just a bit clunky compared to a Smith. The action is noticeably longer and usually less crisp.

If you plan on conceal carry, as well as a house gun, get a K-frame 65 or a 19/66. Best 19's are the -5's. Best 66's and the -2 and -3's. Stick with 158 gr bullets in any K-frame, magnum or not.

Stay away from any Rossi and about 50% of the Taurus revolvers.

 

[Droff]

I have not attended a gun show yet, not sure if I have ever attended one. There is one coming up in a couple weeks at the fairgrounds, is it worth the trip, or are guns typically priced a bit higher to cover set up costs at the show? I've heard both ways before, there are good deals but also things overpriced.

Found a 13-3 on Armslist for $450, nothing that looks really good for under $5-600. Not sure if a used 65 for well under $450 is still out there.