You may try Security Centers Inc. in Catoosa. They have a large selection and various price ranges.
+1 ^^^^
And whatever you do, DON"T get one with a digital lock, They are cool looking and easy to open until they fail (and it will eventually) then you will be drilling it open, And it will happen just as you are leaving on a hunting trip or while someone is attempting to kick your door in!!!!
Don't forget that Bear Safe will give you back what you paid when you trade up.
I had a Cannon from Academy when I first got one, then when I was moving up I looked at Bear and while they are a good safe I could not get past their prices. for what I was willing to spend the new Bear safe I saw was going to be smaller than the Cannon safe I currently had. I ended up getting a Liberty Fatboy and love it, fire rating is just a little bit shorter than the Baer safe and it alot bigger than my previous safe.
Most all safes can be bolted down, so that is not a worry. Like said though buy bigger than you expect, you will want it. I am kicking myself now for not spending the extra $200 when I bought my Liberty and geting the next size up that was big enough to walk into.
Most all safes can be bolted down, so that is not a worry. Like said though buy bigger than you expect, you will want it. I am kicking myself now for not spending the extra $200 when I bought my Liberty and geting the next size up that was big enough to walk into.
Take it from the locksmith!
I have a Sentry from Tractor Supply, $200 or $300 (10 gun I think). I just needed something to keep a couple hunting rifles and a couple handguns locked up from the kids and company. It's not fire proof, not real heavy duty, but it is bolted to the wall and serves its purpose.
I second the no digital lock warning. My next one is probably going to be a Bear. I would also like to suggest that you get one that floats.
Good points made for Bear safes, but I'd add that Atwoods clears out their safes after Christmas. Some of the best deals going.
And remember- All modern gun safes are only a barrier to theft or unauthorized access. As the above posted video demonstrates (And teaches would be thieves..) determined individuals with a window of opportunity can enter a safe pretty quickly. Even with a pricy safe, an angle grinder with cutoff wheels or metal cutting circular saw can slice a window out of the side in a couple minutes. Hell, hand trucks and 2-3 guys on vitamin meth move amazing weights every day in OK.
So, no matter what you choose, keep it out of public view, bolt it down, record serial numbers or descriptions, take pics of everything inside and insure the whole mess. Make your home a hard target.
And remember- All modern gun safes are only a barrier to theft or unauthorized access. As the above posted video demonstrates (And teaches would be thieves..) determined individuals with a window of opportunity can enter a safe pretty quickly. Even with a pricy safe, an angle grinder with cutoff wheels or metal cutting circular saw can slice a window out of the side in a couple minutes. Hell, hand trucks and 2-3 guys on vitamin meth move amazing weights every day in OK.
So, no matter what you choose, keep it out of public view, bolt it down, record serial numbers or descriptions, take pics of everything inside and insure the whole mess. Make your home a hard target.
I use a Dakota safe.
I had an interesting discussion with a Browning Safe rep. and he educated me on the fire rating system, or rather the lack thereof. Don't think that your guns are safe from fire just because it has a rating of some sort. As with anything you get what you pay for. When I upgrade I'm going to go with an upper end Browning because I like their door storage setup or possibly a Liberty if the deal is good enough. But whatever you do go bigger than you think you need and get into the upper tiers of whatever brand you get. They really are better. Some of the lower end safes are just a thin steel storage case with a lock when you get down to it.
Similar threads
- Sub Category: Handguns
- Caliber: 45 ACP
