Any legit questions are ok in my book (I used to drive folks nuts asking questions), that's how you learn.
As for the rest... do the same as you would if deer hunting...
Ignore the turkeys.
As for the rest... do the same as you would if deer hunting...
Ignore the turkeys.
This is what you need.
Are you running a sprinkler on it yet. It should make the soil easier to work with it.
After this hard rain we had, I can see the areas that get the wettest. 24hrs after the rain from one sunny day and the soil is damp but not sloshy. I have a new idea now. I already have a dirt pile for fill dirt for some low spots I've been working on in the larger yard. I am going to:
- use some of the dirt to manually fill in the visible low spots in the large flat area that will eventually be under the shed (16x24) once it is built
- Use a homemade dirt dragger made from an old pallet (weighted if necessary) to smooth out the fill dirt spots in the large flat area (that is lumpy because of the low spots all over it)
- use a 400lb lawn roller I already bought for my other low spot project anyway to compact the large flat area that has the newly dirt filled & redneck pallet graded low spots
- bring in gravel and spread and cover the entire pad of where the shed will sit on the newly "fixed" large flat spot
- leave the "berm" alone because it begins about where the shed wall will be. It creates a shallow gully between the house and where the shed will be and will actually stop some water from draining under the shed
- Add a french drain pipe in the gully between the house and the shed at a later date if I feel it is necessary once the shed is built
I think this saves me a lot of hassle with sod cutting and dealing with working the hard clay ground underneath
Dave, I still might need help on the gravel thing...you guys are freakin' awesome though...I work too much to think this much about something so unless something changes (or one of y'all respond with something that prompts a change), then I think I have a plan. I doesn't have to be perfect, I just didn't want water to sit under the barn and if that ground is wet (especially in the low spots) 24hrs after a rain, then I bet it would be really wet if not exposed to the sun and left the way it is before the shed was constructed.
- use some of the dirt to manually fill in the visible low spots in the large flat area that will eventually be under the shed (16x24) once it is built
- Use a homemade dirt dragger made from an old pallet (weighted if necessary) to smooth out the fill dirt spots in the large flat area (that is lumpy because of the low spots all over it)
- use a 400lb lawn roller I already bought for my other low spot project anyway to compact the large flat area that has the newly dirt filled & redneck pallet graded low spots
- bring in gravel and spread and cover the entire pad of where the shed will sit on the newly "fixed" large flat spot
- leave the "berm" alone because it begins about where the shed wall will be. It creates a shallow gully between the house and where the shed will be and will actually stop some water from draining under the shed
- Add a french drain pipe in the gully between the house and the shed at a later date if I feel it is necessary once the shed is built
I think this saves me a lot of hassle with sod cutting and dealing with working the hard clay ground underneath
Dave, I still might need help on the gravel thing...you guys are freakin' awesome though...I work too much to think this much about something so unless something changes (or one of y'all respond with something that prompts a change), then I think I have a plan. I doesn't have to be perfect, I just didn't want water to sit under the barn and if that ground is wet (especially in the low spots) 24hrs after a rain, then I bet it would be really wet if not exposed to the sun and left the way it is before the shed was constructed.
I dunno if this is practical for your situation or not, but you might consider putting the barn on a slab. Concrete don't mind water contact. Just make sure the top is above the highest expected water/flood level.
Not practical..the lowest spot (in the large flat area) is too deep compared to the sides...I'd have to bring in a massive amount of fill dirt and build the pad up before pouring a slab. The "flat" area is prob 8-10ft wide and then on both sides it rises probably 6-10 inches from the lowest spot in the middle of the shed pad dimensions.
If i did a stemwall I could save a little dirt work if doing a pad, but still lots more work & cost than the current plan...plus, a perm structure which I don't want. I agree slab is best option but in this case for me it is not an option unfortunately, it will either be on piers or skids & a gravel pad.
Last edited:
Sounds like you've assessed the project/problem pretty well.
Again, luck.
Again, luck.
I hope!
Now on another note, can anyone generally tell me if filling low spots in a yard, will a pallet drag work to smooth the dirt before compaction? Or is it worth it to buy one of those metal chain looking drags like they use for a baseball infield (the kind with no added weights)? I want to dump dirt in the low areas with a shovel and do a rough rake and then let the drag do the rest of the work...no tedious finish hand raking if possible? I am gonna roll it with 400lbs after I drag it too.
Thanks!
Now on another note, can anyone generally tell me if filling low spots in a yard, will a pallet drag work to smooth the dirt before compaction? Or is it worth it to buy one of those metal chain looking drags like they use for a baseball infield (the kind with no added weights)? I want to dump dirt in the low areas with a shovel and do a rough rake and then let the drag do the rest of the work...no tedious finish hand raking if possible? I am gonna roll it with 400lbs after I drag it too.
Thanks!
Mother Nature will always tell you the grade Of the ground.
Similar threads
