What tractor attachment for shaving off grass???

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sh00ter

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I have a manual sleeve hitch off my cub cadet LT1050 you can try. I switched to electric and front end loader from Johnny Bucket Jr. You can spend a fortune once you get started. http://www.johnnyproducts.com/J_Bucket_HTMs/JBpage_Jr_Cub-Cadet1000_Toro.htm
I converted a rototiller attachment for it also. Just take it easy on the transaxle.


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Hey thanks, where u located? The way it is looking I might go a diff route but a discount on the hitch vs new makes the deal more tempting. I ordered a lawn roller and spike aerator too. So far, I have pulled things ranging from 300 - 2000lbs and this little tractor and light-duty tranny have handled it! I wish the tranny oil was easier to change though because I want to add heavy-duty synthetic to off-set some of the work I've been throwing at it. I found the limit by pulling a cart loaded with dirt that was prob 700-800lbs up a 20/30 degree hill. Had to floor it and rock back & fourth to get it to "catch" and keep moving up the hill...won't try that again! I'll see what I can find about that hitch working with the XT1 cub. Also amen on the spending...amazing how many attachments they have and what people even come up with for home-brew options. I would like to have the snow blade but it's costly!

PM me a price and I will consider it...thx so much for chiming in and also tell me if you have had any tranny issues or ever changed the tranny fluid?
 
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MacFromOK

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I wish the tranny oil was easier to change though because I want to add heavy-duty synthetic to off-set some of the work I've been throwing at it.
I know nothing about your tractor, but beware of using fluids other than specified by the mfr.

If it has wet-clutches (like standard automotive transmissions), using a different oil can make the clutches slip, or possibly dissolve the glue that holds the friction material on the clutch discs.

If it's hydrostatic (driven by hydraulic motors), you should have more wiggle room on fluids. However, if it's under warranty, I'd stay with mfr specs anyway.

Luck. Get out there and learn stuff. :drunk2:
 

sh00ter

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I know nothing about your tractor, but beware of using fluids other than specified by the mfr.

If it has wet-clutches (like standard automotive transmissions), using a different oil can make the clutches slip, or possibly dissolve the glue that holds the friction material on the clutch discs.

If it's hydrostatic (driven by hydraulic motors), you should have more wiggle room on fluids. However, if it's under warranty, I'd stay with mfr specs anyway.

Luck. Get out there and learn stuff. :drunk2:

Yes...most brands of modern entry-level tractors use the tuff-torq k46 hydro tranny. It comes filled with conventional bulk 10w30 automotive oil but the mfg actually recommends 5w50 full syn. They don't put that in from the factory because it cost more and most people won't work them more than just mowing the lawn, plus the 10w30 can usually hold out during the warranty period which is all they (both tractor maker and tranny maker) care about. BUT the phone techs and FAQ's from Tuff Torque website say it better to use the full syn. Problem is, Cub Cadet calls this a non-serviceable tranny and there is no drain plug, only a fill plug that usually gets destroyed when you remove it so u need to have another ordered and ready. AND you must remove the tranny completely to fully drain it (upside down). The poor man's way is to go in through the top with a gear oil pump but you only get about 50% of the OEM oil out that way.

I only have 10hrs on the tractor and will prob just work it as-is until this winter when I get time to remove the tranny and do the oil swap...people report the better oil making it work like new again and also if done when tranny is newer, making it last a lot longer until troubles regardless of use. Why do manufacturers have to make things so difficult??? At least give us a drain plug! I am opting for Mobil-1 15w50 instead because it contains less viscosity improvers and in the Oklahoma heat, it should be a more custom choice than the catch-all 5w50 which is also harder to find. They say 5w50 to cover all climates, but I think 15w50 will be the best choice for a "preventative-action, lifetime fill" of the k46.
 

FreeSpiritBalloon

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I haven't changed the fluid yet in 300 hours of use. I have tried to move a boat and made the transaxle pop so I quit and used the truck. I am thinking of building a sleeve hitch attachment to strip sod since I have to strip a pad for our daughters mobile home she is about to move. I just don't have much scrap metal to work with.


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sh00ter

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I haven't changed the fluid yet in 300 hours of use. I have tried to move a boat and made the transaxle pop so I quit and used the truck. I am thinking of building a sleeve hitch attachment to strip sod since I have to strip a pad for our daughters mobile home she is about to move. I just don't have much scrap metal to work with.


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Well the pop could have been the belt slipping or the tongue weight being too much...I moved a 10ft covered trailer full of stuff up a slight concrete slope (figure must have weighed 2000lbs or less) but I left the wheel jack down to take some of the tongue weight. If I had put all the weight on the rear of the tractor I bet it would have broke something. On a jetski, it weighs maybe 850-1000lbs on the trailer and the tongue weight is much lighter so I just move it around with the jack up and it is fine.

If you build that attachment, post some pics for the board!
 

sh00ter

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Your Killin me...

Ask yourself who has the bigger problem...me or you? LOL (I know you're just kiddin' me anyway) When a man gets his first "tractor", its like a Tonka toy for a kid...hopefully with the amount of replies, this thread has at least entertained some folks.

I do all my stuff like this...I over analyze and try to learn and plan. If I didn't have to work all the time and if the investment in attachments wasn't so much, I'd have started it this weekend. Even if I do wind up waiting on it, at least I will be wiser when i break ground. Dave has an offer out and when I get a break, I might entertain that...the grass will be dead anyway because once I get this drainage solved, there will be a building over it...I might just solve the issue and spread gravel over the fixed areas since they will be covered anyway...prob just scrape the whole pad and gravel it.

CHenry, you just prompted a good idea, thx!
 

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