anyone know much about Lugers?

[ldp4570]

Ouch. I collect Walthers mainly. I just started really collecting them not so long ago, so you know what they say about a little knowledge?

Collecting Lugers is probably the single biggest risk you can take in buying guns. They are all expensive. Even mistmatched "shooters" start at about $700. Most models are $1500-4000. Even the holsters can be worth up to $800 by themselves. The "take down tools" are expensive. Additionally, because they are so valuable, there is a ton of fraud. People "mock up"guns. I even had a guy tell me that some industrious crooks are stamping out magazine numbers to enhance the values on antique presses.

There are lots of variations, but generally Lugers can be divided into the following catagories:

Pre WW I
WW I
Weimar
Nazi/WW II

The most valuable are certain pre-War and certain Nazi marked ones.

Condition is everything. The better the finish and bore, the more valuable the pistol. Matching serial numbers are a must, except most magazines won't be numbered to the guns (when you do find this they command a premium). Good condition holsters and take down tools improve value.

Later I will add some links. Tired now.

Then it breaks down by company i.e. Mauser, DWM, and by country manufactured i.e. Germany, Swiss, Finnish, Caliber, barrel length, sights, stocks(not grips). Then above all else condition, condition, condition. Tools and all acessories. Besides the 1911A1, the Luger is probably the most recognizable gun in the world, and the most collected of any firearm.

Go here and have a look www.simpsonltd.com Luger heaven.

 

[ldp4570]

Which ones are more collectible? I hear the wood grips and mags are even SN'd to the gun. Are they all Nazi marked? I am seeing the term straw marked? Any recommendations would help.

thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Strawing is a type of heat treatment similar to case harding. This process was stopped just prior to WWII due to cost. Lugers with full straw(Hard to find) to as little as 25% command higher prices.

 

[jfssms]

These links were provided to me by JB Books.

http://luger.gunboards.com/
http://www.lugerforum.com/
http://www.simpsonhd.com/index.php

 

[Honeybee]

Straw is a low temp niter bluing, It is very difficult to do but I still get a few calls for it now and then by collectors, The whole gun was not done in a straw, just a few specific parts.

 

[mr ed]

Are you going to shoot it or for investment?
If for investment, you want all matching numbers with 90+% original finish.
and don't shoot it. if you break a part (which their prone to do) you will have to replace it with a non-matching part and there goes down the value.
Look it over real good for import marks, usually real small like scratches on the bottom of the barrel. import marks decrease the value by probably 25%

For a shooter buy the cheapest one you can find in good condition.
have fun shooting it. Just don't use hot loads.

I've got ones in my collection from a non-import artillery w/ matching stock and 98-99% finish I paid $1750 for back in 90.
To a 65% finish import marked I bought for $250

On most of them the straw color was the heat-treat temper on the trigger, safety and extractor and other parts. thats the easiest way to tell a reblue cause they will be black.


As far as shooting, their kind of a fun novelty. No way in hell would I ever use one for a carry gun.

 

[bhp31]

there are whole books written about them...

the problem is that some have faked proof marks (certain proofs denote that a particular gun can be more/less valuable),,and it can be very hard to tell if a gun has faked proof marks....even seasoned collectors have bought expensive fakes unknowingly and have thus taken a huge loss on their investment...

when buying a Luger for investment purposes,,,,you MUST do a lot of research....it can take years to become proficient at identifying Lugers that are valuable rather than run-of-the-mill/fakes..

 

[JB Books]

there are whole books written about them...

the problem is that some have faked proof marks (certain proofs denote that a particular gun can be more/less valuable),,and it can be very hard to tell if a gun has faked proof marks....even seasoned collectors have bought expensive fakes unknowingly and have thus taken a huge loss on their investment...

when buying a Luger for investment purposes,,,,you MUST do a lot of research....it can take years to become proficient at identifying Lugers that are valuable rather than run-of-the-mill/fakes..

That is one reason I usually only buy from established auction houses and/or dealers.

However, I have picked up some tremendous deals from time to time at out of the way auctions.

 

[Traxxis]

That is true. I had forgotten about the civilian versions before the German Army adopted them. I believe it was actiually patented in the late 1890's and first produced around 1900.

Oddly enough, did you know that there were two Lugers made in .45 caliber that were submitted to the US Department of Defense along with the 1911 and a few others... one was destroyed... the other... well, it's said to be the most valuable gun in the world.

http://www.lugerforum.com/45Luger.html

 

[OKCShooter]

I, too, was fascinated by them - so I bought a 1942 matching numbered Luger with holster and matching takedown tool that is a captured Nazi marked gun (Waffen stamping). It has original capture papers from the soldier dated from 1944...

Really cool piece.

 

[JB Books]

Oddly enough, did you know that there were two Lugers made in .45 caliber that were submitted to the US Department of Defense along with the 1911 and a few others... one was destroyed... the other... well, it's said to be the most valuable gun in the world.

http://www.lugerforum.com/45Luger.html

I saw one go for auction recently $450,000 + buyer's premium.