Battery? Starter? Solenoid?

[PUMPKIN]

i just went thru the same thing with a f150.

-checked battery - ok, 12.37 volts
-checked solenoid - ok (very easy test, go to the web - youtube and search for 'how to test your solenoid - this will test your battery, solenoid and starter as i understand it).
-checked the voltage i was getting at the starter - from my tester put positive wire on positive terminal of starter and ground the negative wire on the frame and was getting the same voltage as at the battery - 12. 37. volts. did not crank the engine.

as it turned out, my problem was the $17 starter switch in the column. replaced it and turned the key once and it started.

starter will have 12 volts on standby from the battery at all times, its the signal wire or circuit from the keyswitch that enguages the starter.

 

[HMFIC]

If the starter has 12 volts from the batteries on the "BIG" wire to the solenoid. and the signal wire on the starter solenoid has voltage when the key switch is turned and the starter does not enguage its the starter and or solenoid depending if they are together or seperate, im guessing they are together. Ron at auto battery and electric is kind of a jerk but they do good work and will probably have one on the shelf.

OK Thanks Pumpkin... I'll make that my first test 'o the marnin'

 

[4play]

The infamous "clicks no-start" I would bet my money on a bad starter.

I would start with a simple hammer test, if you had a long prybar you can do it from under the hood. Just have somebody inside the car and hold the key over in the start position and smack the starter a few times. This method is not always successful but it could make for a quick diag. I have replaced dozens of starters on the 3.0 12v and most of them were had oil and gunk all over them. The oil filter location doesn't help a lot, but many of these cars also had oil pan gaskets leaks. Im not saying it is the oil that kills the starter but it seems probable.

If the cables are clean and tight (at battery and starter) then a voltage check at the starter should be fairly easy to do. Once again have someone hold the key in the start position and check the single small wire at the starter, it should have battery voltage along with the large wire too.

 

[HMFIC]

Appreciate the info. It's looking like that from what everyone agrees on. And YES, that damned oil filter is directly above it and the whole starter is covered in it's ooze.

Thanks again!

The infamous "clicks no-start" I would bet my money on a bad starter.

I would start with a simple hammer test, if you had a long prybar you can do it from under the hood. Just have somebody inside the car and hold the key over in the start position and smack the starter a few times. This method is not always successful but it could make for a quick diag. I have replaced dozens of starters on the 3.0 12v and most of them were had oil and gunk all over them. The oil filter location doesn't help a lot, but many of these cars also had oil pan gaskets leaks. Im not saying it is the oil that kills the starter but it seems probable.

If the cables are clean and tight (at battery and starter) then a voltage check at the starter should be fairly easy to do. Once again have someone hold the key in the start position and check the single small wire at the starter, it should have battery voltage along with the large wire too.

 

[HMFIC]

Well I'm gonna go unwind and hit the sack. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. If there are anymore leave 'em and I'll check first thing tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

[WTJ]

Try cleaning the ground? Everywhere? This is symptomatic on Fords.

 

[ProBusiness]

starter will have 12 volts on standby from the battery at all times, its the signal wire or circuit from the keyswitch that enguages the starter.

The battery cables looked real bad. So you might not have 12 volts at the starter at all times with a bad cable, right? Yes, I know that circuit from the key engages the starter but that does not do any good if the starter is not getting enough power to run it.

 

[ProBusiness]

That's interesting Dan. So what even made you look at the switch? I mean the moment I had proper voltage at the starter and it didn't crank, I'd be calling it a day and getting it rebuilt.

Am I thinking about this wrong?



How did you narrow the switch eventually?

Pretty easy in my case, the starter switch was loose and acted like it had a short in it. I had checked everything else so why not try a $17 part.

As stated above, even though you are getting at least 12 volts at starter positive terminal, that does not mean that the key/switch/circuit/ etc. is sending it's 'start' message to the starter. Two diff things. Hopes this helps.

 

[HMFIC]

Well I just wanted to bump this and thank everyone for their suggestions and help.

I tested the solenoid at the hot side and had good voltage and then tested the switch side and it had good voltage when the ignition was turned as well.

So, I pulled the starter, took it up to the local parts store and they ran their free test on some fancy machine. Starter just laughed at them.

They wanted $139 + tax after core (out the door $154) for a lifetime warranty rebuilt replacement at pretty much all the stores. I didn't intend to buy one anyway but wanted to check the price for comparison.

Took the starter down to Automotive Battery and Electric on 4th St. just west of Peoria near downtown just like several of you suggested (thanks Sol, I didn't even know they existed prior to this). I dropped it off around 1:30pm yesterday and when I went by there around 9:30am this morning, it was bright and shiny and looking good as new.

They replaced the starter drive @ $12, the solenoid @ $24 and brushholder assembly @ $8. Labor was $26 and with tax and all total I have a better than new starter for $75 out the door in about a half a day.

I installed it in about 15 minutes and it fired up first shot and sounds strong and solid.

I AM MORE THAN PLEASED with not only the money I saved (50% of parts store prices) but also with the service and apparant quality of Automotive Battery & Electric. Bobby was the guys name that helped me and he was courteous, knowedgeable and helpfull. I did see Ron helping another customer this morning when I picked it up and he was all smiles and seemed very nice too. He took the time to thank me in addition to Bobby as I left even though he was busy with something else.

Thanks again guys! I appreciate all of the guidance on here and would also highly recommend A,B&E. They also do alternators, power tools, DC motors of whatever kind, etc...

 

[tRidiot]

Well, I'm glad you got it fixed. I thought that was probably it. Good deal, and thanks for letting us know!

If I need anything else done, I'll be sure to go there, they've gotten a lot of good reviews!