Car buying and financial responsibility

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CHenry

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I listen to DR everyday and have learned a lot but I was already doing most of his plan before I heard about him. Today I am debt free other than about 20% left of my mortgage.
First thing I would say (and I didnt hear it mentioned) is close all those CC accounts and cut up the cards.
Then get on a strict budget, no eating out, no buying anything that you do not need (this only hurts temporarily).
Sell anything that you can to a point the dog is hiding cause he thinks he's next.
Now list all the debts smallest to largest and start paying off the smallest one while making the min. payments on everything else. When thats gone put that money you were paying on that small one towards the next smallest. Seeing this small victories is proven to build motivation and intensity.
You already said you have an emergency fund in place which is good.
Now on the vehicle, DR would tell you to sell and get a beater (again, this is temporary). I saw a 2004 f-150 yesturday on CL for $3500 with 110k miles on it. It looked pretty clean. Get something like that after you sell your car and pay cash for the beater. Get liability ins on it and you just gave yourself a $500 a month raise to help pay off your debt. DR says to never buy a car worth more than 1/2 your annual salary so if you make less than $50k, you got too much car. Once your debts are gone (and that will happen fast if you sell this car), think how fast you can bank some cash to move up into a nicer truck and pay cash for it.
I have a hardback copy of Daves book, The Total Money Makeover, and also an audio CD version that I would be willing to let you borrow also.
I dont do the envelope budget system Dave talks about but I"m also not a spender so I dont see the need. If I dont need it, I dont buy it. I'm pretty frugal with my eating out and play money but I'm also out of debt and my net worth is up there pretty good so I can splurge sometimes if I decide to reward myself with a new gun purchase or a steak dinner with a girllfriend. When I was in your shoes, I didnt splurge ever.
If your investing in retirement, Dave would tell you to stop that temporarily until this debt is paid off. Shouldnt take you even a year it sounds like (if you sell the car). Once its all gone, invest 15% of your salary in good growth mutual funds. I use Vanguard for my investing into a ROTH IRA. Plus I have a state matching pension fund that I contribute to. Your young and the best advice I can give you is to start investing ASAP once the debt is gone. Time and compound interest will easily make you a millionaire by retirement age...if you start now. 15% of your salary invested at 10% interest will be many millions from age 30 to age 60. 10% is NOT hard to find either.
 
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Shoot Summ

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I listen to DR everyday and have learned a lot but I was already doing most of his plan before I heard about him. Today I am debt free other than about 20% left of my mortgage.
First thing I would say (and I didnt hear it mentioned) is close all those CC accounts and cut up the cards.
Then get on a strict budget, no eating out, no buying anything that you do not need (this only hurts temporarily).
Sell anything that you can to a point the dog is hiding cause he thinks he's next.
Now list all the debts smallest to largest and start paying off the smallest one while making the min. payments on everything else. When thats gone put that money you were paying on that small one towards the next smallest. Seeing this small victories is proven to build motivation and intensity.
You already said you have an emergency fund in place which is good.
Now on the vehicle, DR would tell you to sell and get a beater (again, this is temporary). I saw a 2004 f-150 yesturday on CL for $3500 with 110k miles on it. It looked pretty clean. Get something like that after you sell your car and pay cash for the beater. Get liability ins on it and you just gave yourself a $500 a month raise to help pay off your debt. DR says to never buy a car worth more than 1/2 your annual salary so if you make less than $50k, you got too much car. Once your debts are gone (and that will happen fast if you sell this car), think how fast you can bank some cash to move up into a nicer truck and pay cash for it.
I have a hardback copy of Daves book, The Total Money Makeover, and also an audio CD version that I would be willing to let you borrow also.
I dont do the envelope budget system Dave talks about but I"m also not a spender so I dont see the need. If I dont need it, I dont buy it. I'm pretty frugal with my eating out and play money but I'm also out of debt and my net worth is up there pretty good so I can splurge sometimes if I decide to reward myself with a new gun purchase or a steak dinner with a girllfriend. When I was in your shoes, I didnt splurge ever.
If your investing in retirement, Dave would tell you to stop that temporarily until this debt is paid off. Shouldnt take you even a year it sounds like (if you sell the car). Once its all gone, invest 15% of your salary in good growth mutual funds. I use Vanguard for my investing into a ROTH IRA. Plus I have a state matching pension fund that I contribute to. Your young and the best advice I can give you is to start investing ASAP once the debt is gone. Time and compound interest will easily make you a millionaire by retirement age...if you start now. 15% of your salary invested at 10% interest will be many millions from age 30 to age 60. 10% is NOT hard to find either.

Dave has interesting advice, it certainly works for many, but it's also a bit extreme in some cases.

Credit cards aren't bad, the way people tend to use them is, carrying a balance is ridiculous. Even if I decide to carry a balance for a larger purchase, my mail box has a 0% interest offer in it every day, so I will transfer to 0% instead of leaving it on a higher interest card. This makes much more sense than pulling it out of good investments that are earning 2-3x the balance transfer fee.

As I stated earlier, I'm not of fan of the smallest to largest payoff either, I put it all in a spreadsheet, then determine the financial impact of the payoff, cost of money(interest rate) is a bigger factor when I am helping folks get on track.

And being a "millionaire" for retirement these days, is likely to leave you short, so you need to target being a "multi-millionaire", and NEVER stop contributing the portion of a 401K that is matched by your employer, that's just throwing money away.
 

FullAuto

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I am actually 27, no accidents, with one minor moving violation in the past 5 years.
I haven't considered a credit union, I'll have to look into that. However, with extending the loan out, wouldn't that normally increase how much I am paying for it, considering the interest? I am trying to avoid that.
You would be extending the loan for the purpose of paying off your credit card and/or your tool truck debt. The interest rate would possibly be lower on the car loan and most definitely be lower than the other interest rates. So based off all the debt you'd be rolling into a single loan, you should be paying less.

Progressive is a 2nd tier insurance company. 1st tier companies are sold through captive agents that only sell for the one company. When a customer shops an independent agent, they typically have some kind of issue that makes the 1st tier insurance company not want your business and thus give a high quote. If you have really bad credit, a DUI or several tickets, reputable companies don't want you. When you go to your independent agent, Progressive is basically the top company for that type of customer.

Check out a company where the agent only sells for the one company. State Farm and Farmer's are the top 2 companies in this state. USAA is also great if you qualify. Anytime Progressive is the better deal, it's because there is something wrong with the customer.
 

sedona

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You have been given some good advice so far.Your spending and saving habits in the next few years will determine if you are able to retire early or working at walmart when your 84 because you have to.Don't be that guy.Get rid of your car and buy a $5000.00 vehicle and keep it as long as you can.Everyone wants an occasional gun.Rathole every 5 dollar bill you get and in a few months you will have enough for a glock or sig or whatever you like.For the last 20 years I haven't taken money out of the bank to buy a glock or a $2000.00 over and under.
 

dennishoddy

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Anytime Progressive is the better deal, it's because there is something wrong with the customer.
Not always. I have a bundle with USAA. Home and vehicles. My credit report is impressive, and always has been.
USAA do not insure boats. When you call them for a quote, your directed to progressive.
I'm pretty happy with their coverage although I haven't had the occasion to collect from them.
 

nofearfactor

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Sounds like alot of good advice. I would skip that truck deal tho, you can find a better deal for $5k. Some day when you have stuff paid down and you have a little extra cash its always nice to have a truck AND a car also.
 

nofearfactor

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Might use the quote button...mmmkay? lol
Did you even read the O P? He said something about a deal on a truck for 5k. So. I wasnt even speaking to you. I was speaking to him. If I posted a response in this thread then it was to the OP, not to you. If it was your thread then I suppose I would have been speaking directly to you, but I wasnt. Thus no need for a quote IMO. Have a problem with that? Then take it up with yourself...
 
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