Ruger 10/22 Question

[stroker-c10]

I recently installed: Volquartsen Target Hammer, Volquartsen Auto Bolt release, Volquartsen exact edge extractor, and Tactical solutions extended mag release. However, I have ran across a few issues.

*First of all, the spring that they sent me is not tapered like the original ruger one and does not properly seat in the sear.

*Second, when I draw the bolt back now, it seems as if it is dragging across the hammer?

Any suggestions / advice as to what may be the issue?

 

[BReeves]

Not a 10/22 expert but have helped fix a few. Except for the ejector spring, most use the stock springs instead of the replacements in the kit. Never seen a stock 10/22 that the bolt guide pin didn't need to be polished.

Pull the spring back with the bolt handle and lock it back with a piece of leather and small vice grips. Grind the crimp off the end to allow the handle, spacer and spring to be taken off. Be careful and don't let it go twang or you will never find the spacer. Make the rod is straight and chuck it in a drill. Polish with 600 then 1200 sandpaper with a little oil. Clean it up and reassemble. You really don't need to re-crimp the end but you have to remember to be extra careful when removing and replacing the bolt or it will go twang and you'll be searching for parts.

Did you use the spacers that came with the hammer and in the proper location. It's pretty obvious but have seen them installed wrong. Last but not least if it's a newer gun the inside of the receiver is probably pretty rough, a couple swipes with 600 sand paper helps allot. You don't want to take any metal off just clean up the rough spots.

Most new 10/22's need a little TLC before they will run properly. Hope this helps.

 

[stroker-c10]

Thanks for the info, never saw the reply. I installed the shims properly and I did go ahead and use the factory spring between the disconnecter and sear. I did however replace the spring with the supplied volquartsen spring. I have shot plenty of rounds through it (unsure on round count), and it never seemed to have an issue with the factory hammer. I have heard some say polish the hammer but am unsure as to how much this would help.

 

[BReeves]

Try cocking the hammer with the trigger group out of the gun. This will tell you if the roughness is the hammer or the bolt/hammer mating surfaces. Wouldn't hurt to polish the front of the hammer and rear of bolt. Some round off the rear of the bolt but I haven't found a need to go there. If it runs OK it will wear itself in, just shoot it and eventually it will get better.