1911 questions

[HiredHand]

Of all the things that 1911 needs, a FLGR is NOT one of them. IMHO I think a FLGR is needed only if running a comp on it.

The four basic things a COMBAT/CARRY .45 needs to make it more shooter friendly is...

1. Good set of sights.

2. Good elongated/speed trigger.

3. Beavertail grip safety

4. Commander style/slotted/skelotonized hammer.

Everything else is just cosmetic junk.

If it were mine, I would also install a flat MSH. Perhaps a decent thumb safety if the one on it currently was too skinny. But never an ambi...I hate ambis.

I totally agree with you on point number one but I don't think that 2,3,4 are necessary. Depending on the size of your hands and how you grip a 1911, beaver tails and long triggers may or may not feel better. For the guy that's new to a 1911 its hard to explain sometimes why you'd spend 2-3 times the purchase price of the gun having it gone over by a gunsmith that specializes in 1911s.

 

[Danny]

i just recently picked up a used springfield 1911a1 and when i rack the slide to cycle ammo it seems like it jams up unless i pull it back and let it go also when i pull it back it will not eject unless i pull it back fast i am new to 1911's so i was wondering if this is normal or if there is a problem i used to have a glock and there was never an issue when i did it with the glock

From the way you sum it up, you're being kind of "gentle" with it. Do not ease the slide forward when chambering a round. Pull it back and let it go. The only time you should ease the slide forward is when it's empty and you want to return the slide to the forward position without a magazine or ammo in it. Especially if it is an aluminum framed gun. But as long as there is ammo present, ready to be chambered, let her rip. The ammo being chambered absorbs the energy.

Also, don't ease it back to eject a round. Pull it back like you got a pair. D

 

[HackerF15E]

The 1911 is a great shooter *exactly* the way Browning designed it and Colt built it.

Beavertails, extended this-n-that, FLGRs, etc, are all un-necessary. They're all "tacti-cool" accessories that aren't needed for the 1911 to function exactly as designed. The GI sights do work just fine, too.

Some people get hammer bite, yes, but not the majority of people.

 

[JD8]

Same could be said for spelling.

Wish I had the money for good compact 1911.

I think typing too fast is quite different than trying to read one big run on sentence. Just sayin.

FLGRs offer no real advantages, unless you get a Tungsten piece.

How a 1911 is setup is all about preference.

 

[Traxxis]

The 1911 is a great shooter *exactly* the way Browning designed it and Colt built it.

Beavertails, extended this-n-that, FLGRs, etc, are all un-necessary. They're all "tacti-cool" accessories that aren't needed for the 1911 to function exactly as designed. The GI sights do work just fine, too.

Some people get hammer bite, yes, but not the majority of people.

All the other stuff isn't just tacti-cool... if they were, you wouldn't see almost 100% of 1911 raceguns with skeleton triggers, magwells, comps and target sights.

A light hammer speeds up lockup and release, a light trigger reduces trigger bump etc etc... like GM said, it's really about preference and use.

 

[Traxxis]

From the way you sum it up, you're being kind of "gentle" with it. Do not ease the slide forward when chambering a round. Pull it back and let it go. The only time you should ease the slide forward is when it's empty and you want to return the slide to the forward position without a magazine or ammo in it. Especially if it is an aluminum framed gun. But as long as there is ammo present, ready to be chambered, let her rip. The ammo being chambered absorbs the energy.

Also, don't ease it back to eject a round. Pull it back like you got a pair. D

Fully agreed and surprised nobody has mentioned that yet.

You don't ride the slide forward, you rack it. Pull it back, let it go. The only time you don't do it is when there's not a round present... you don't drop the slide on an empty chamber.

 

[HiredHand]

All the other stuff isn't just tacti-cool... if they were, you wouldn't see almost 100% of 1911 raceguns with skeleton triggers, magwells, comps and target sights.

A light hammer speeds up lockup and release, a light trigger reduces trigger bump etc etc... like GM said, it's really about preference and use.

I think the word is lock-time.

 

[RedneckZombie]

My GI model has "hammer bit" the crap out of me twice now. Honestly it was my own fault but i'm still going to install an extended beavertail.

 

[HiredHand]

My GI model has "hammer bit" the crap out of me twice now. Honestly it was my own fault but i'm still going to install an extended beavertail.

Why don't you just bob the hammer and take the bite out of it? Bobbing a hammer is simple and you really don't have to remove very much material.

 

[mr ed]

If you put in a curved beavertail and don't put a bobbed or commander hammer.
you'll have a good bobbed one after about the first shot when it bobs itself.

Don't ever put a extended mag button on a carry gun. Their fine for competition.
But for conceal carry all they will do is dump your mag on the ground at the most
inopertune moment.