AR Upgrades

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cdragen

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I recently removed my A2 front sight post in order to put an mlok handguard on my 16" AR so I could run an LPVO--I like having the LPVO, but in some ways I wish I had just built another rifle and left this one as it was. I also considered going the cut-off route, but ultimately decided I wasn't ready to start cutting things and potentially run perfectly good parts. I will say that getting the cross pin out took some serious effort (as it should), but every time I let the hammer fall I was nervous I was going to break something. If you're comfortable using an angle grinder it might save you some time to just cut the front sight off, but otherwise I'd go with full removal.

Another option might be to get a skeletonized tall riser for your red dot so you can use the red dot in a heads up position (good for NVGs and just more comfortable in general), and have the irons with the A2 front sight underneath the red dot for backup.

As far as rails go, I've been a big fan of the Midwest Industries mlok rails I've put on a couple of my rifles. Very sturdy and excellent for the money. I also like the Aero rail I have, but it's a little girthy. Midwest has a lot of options now, different inner diameters, different material thicknesses. Highly recommend checking them out.

Highly agree with the basics listed above: first priorities should be a good set of sights/optic, a sling (a simple, decent 2 point adjustable sling like the Blue Force Gear Vickers sling is probably a great place to start--great YouTube videos or there discussing the why's and how's of slings), and a good light.

After that I think one of the best, easiest, and cheapest ergonomic upgrades is to get a lower angle pistol grip... The standard A2 grip had a tendency to cant your wrist really uncomfortably, especially if you're using a carbine buffer and adjustable stock or brace with a shorter length of pull. BCM makes great pistol grips, as do Magpul, B5, and others. I won't say they're all the same, but the most important factor is going to be that low angle, 15 degrees. After that go with whichever suits your preference for grip texture, internal storage, and price.
 

Droff

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I ran across this rail, I like the look of it but like most mfg's, never heard of these guys before. Looks like I can get most parts needed for the swap, other than an adjustable gas block. Price isn't bad....?

Stinger Rail
 

O4L

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I recently purchased an Aero Precision AR with the Atlas S-One M-lok rail. I highly recommend it.

https://www.primaryarms.com/aero-pr...aign&utm_content=Recurring-Automated-Campaign
1663089783012.png
 

JEVapa

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I want to remove the A2 front sight since I have a red dot I want to run on it, so I'm thinking I need the following;

- Free floating handguard (I've got a 16" barrel) so any length and brand suggestions?
- Gas block, no idea on brand.
- Co-witness sights, flip up, I don't have a set picked out.
- While not needed, I do want to add a compensator/muzzle brake and thought maybe Troy Industries Claymore 5.56 Muzzle Brake would be decent.. or a VG6?
Any other suggestions appreciated.
There is absolutely nothing an AR with all that "stuff" can do that this can't. Especially if you are using it for the home and maybe the range out to a couple hundred meters.

👇 👇

IMG_7035.jpg


That said, it seems that you're set on getting stuff for your AR to turn it into something everyone else has, so I'd say to spend your money wisely. Get quality parts (doesn't mean expensive) and stay away from the chicom garbage.

Adjustable gas blocks are good for 308s and gasguns that are difficult to regulate (300BLK, pistol/SBR, etc.)
You don't need one on a 5.56 NATO AR with a 14.5" and up barrel - waste of money

I'm with @dlbleak on the cut down FSP. It's the best gas block you can get for your gun and it will always go back to the same spot whenever you remove it to put more stuff on your gun. But, if you have to spend the money, get a GB that lasts forever - Badger, DD, PRI; they make them for the Gov. Don't forget your shim.

The A2 birdcage is already a great compensator and flash hider. But, if you have to spend money on a MD, and you aren't suppressing your gun, and it needs to be cool-looking, then look at a MD that gives you benefit, and not just gimmicks. - compensates recoil, flip, and flash. Think PWS's FSC or similar. There are a few other good ones out there.
The troy is so you can say you can gouge foreheads and whatever. It doesn't do the things you want a MD for and serves no real purpose other than to say it's pointy.

If you get BUIS, get them in a set from that same manufacturer. They will match up. Don't be cheap with these, ie UTG, Leapers, or some other chicom junk. Plenty of middle of the road high quality BUIS out there that will hold zero and not fall apart - MI, Magpul, Griffin, etc to get vs giving the chicoms more money.

Rail comment below the stinger thing.

I ran across this rail, I like the look of it but like most mfg's, never heard of these guys before. Looks like I can get most parts needed for the swap, other than an adjustable gas block. Price isn't bad....?

Stinger Rail
They're out of TX. He started in his garage. They seem decent but I'm not partial to the zigzags and such, but they might be worth a try.

I do like MI. I've had multiple rails and parts from them, and they are always high quality and not overpriced and pretty tough. Recommend a 12"-13.5" long rail. I like both the suppressor rail and the light weight.

Rails only go up in price from MI...DD, Geissele, KAC, etc.

So, if you must spend money on your rifle, I recommend a quality rail first, and if you have to, a quality gas block. Then you can start loading it up with all the extra stuff down the road.
 
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Droff

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I'm with dlbleak on the cut down FSP. It's the best gas block you can get for your gun and it will always go back to the same spot whenever you remove it to put more stuff on your gun.

The A2 birdcage is already a great compensator and flash hider.

So, if you must spend money on your rifle, I recommend a quality rail first, and if you have to, a quality gas block. Then you can start loading it up with all the extra stuff down the road.

Good points, I'm not married to anything at this point.

I've only ever used an A2, so nothing else to compare it to. I'm not looking for something cool, I am interested in less recoil and less flip. I ran across the Troy reading a review, maybe I got my wires crossed but it was on a recommended list - can't find the site now, go figure. Seems a lot of comps/MBs cause more side noise and aren't real friendly when other folks are around shooting and the Troy was fairly friendly from the review. I'd prefer to avoid that and I've had no stunned looks with the A2.

I'd rather leave the sight as is and not cut it down, I can live with it on the gun with the red dot, not that big of a deal. What I want to do is add a longer rail, I currently have one that's around 6". In order to install a longer rail, I'll need to either move or remove the FSP, correct? If I go with a longer rail, I'm assuming I'll need another gas block, one that's low profile?

So, #1 on my list is a longer rail.
 

Ready_fire_aim

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I use that drop in rail and have a reddot co-witnessed with the A2 front sight. Standard flip up/back up rear sight. It’s not top of the line, but it’s acceptable for me
 

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JEVapa

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Good points, I'm not married to anything at this point.

I've only ever used an A2, so nothing else to compare it to. I'm not looking for something cool, I am interested in less recoil and less flip. I ran across the Troy reading a review, maybe I got my wires crossed but it was on a recommended list - can't find the site now, go figure. Seems a lot of comps/MBs cause more side noise and aren't real friendly when other folks are around shooting and the Troy was fairly friendly from the review. I'd prefer to avoid that and I've had no stunned looks with the A2.

I'd rather leave the sight as is and not cut it down, I can live with it on the gun with the red dot, not that big of a deal. What I want to do is add a longer rail, I currently have one that's around 6". In order to install a longer rail, I'll need to either move or remove the FSP, correct? If I go with a longer rail, I'm assuming I'll need another gas block, one that's low profile?

So, #1 on my list is a longer rail.
If you're going to put a longer monolithic rail on it and remove the FSP, you might as well cut it off and cold blue the marks. But I think you want to buy a new gas block regardless is what I'm hearing.

I recommend a DD, PRI, or Badger Ordnance low pro gas blocks. There isn't any much better. All three companies have supplied them for SOPMOD and MK12s. Badger and DD mostly.

https://danieldefense.com/mk12-low-profile-gas-block.htmlhttps://www.badgerordnance.com/mk-12-spr-gas-manifold-stainless-steel-75-249-30.html0.750 Diameter Low Profile Stainless Steel Gas Block

Below are good options if you want to keep your FSP.

https://danieldefense.com/m4a1-fsp-risii-fde.htmlhttps://danieldefense.com/omega-rail-9-0-m-lok.html
https://midwestindustriesinc.com/two-piece-ar15-free-float-m-lok-handguard/https://midwestindustriesinc.com/mi-ar-15-m16-m-series-two-piece-drop-in-handguard-m-lok-compatible/https://midwestindustriesinc.com/mi-gen2-two-piece-free-float-handguard/
https://www.knightarmco.com/13129/shop/hand-guards/rasris/m4-ras-forend-assembly
And if you change your gas block, any non-chicom tube will work for the most part. I think MI has the best selection for the $$.
 

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