Plz school me on J frames

[BigRed82]

Yeah so I've always been an auto lovin guy. revolvers have never done it for me much, so when it comes to wheelies, I'm a total novice.

Recently, the idea for a pocket carry option in a J frame package has caught my interest, but there are a ton of different models to choose from.

Between the 442, 642, and 340, what are the experiences and preferences of those that have pocket carried with them?
Thanks!

 

[_CY_]

S&W has a long history of producing compact revolvers or J frames.

my experience is limited to J frames with titanium cylinders and aluminum frames... 337PD & 340PD with Crimson Trace & Hogue bantum style grips.

337PD has a normal hammer with single and double action trigger....chambered for .38 & +P.

340PD has an internal hammer, shoots in double action only... chambered for .357

the 340PD has heavier construction to withstand .357's aprox. 2x increase in ft lbs energy delivered. 340PD weights only .5oz heavier than 337PD once you remove the grips.

340PD's top strap is twice as thick and titanium cylinder is longer to accommodate .357's longer case.

337PD is a more versatile pistol with double action and single action.
it's limited to .38 & +P, but most folks, especially women will not be able to handle firing an ultra lightweight pistol in .357.

but for those with stronger hands ... firing a .357 in an airweight pistol provided you get rid of the stock Hogue bantum grips.. is very manageable.

Crimson Trace grips with 340PD .357 125gn Fiocchi rated at 1450 fps.... felt recoil is still fierce, but manageable. I can easily fire off a five shot set of .357's and maintain acceptable accuracy for self defense.

IMHO J frames are the ultimate in CCW... the best combination of reliability, concealable, lightweight and firepower.

sure the latest round of auto mouse guns can be lighter and offer 9mm options. but unless one is willing to go through a fluff & buff and hundreds of rounds to find out what ammo will feed reliably ... they are not generally reliable out of the box.

vs say a S&W 642 J frame revolver .. which are dead nuts reliable with any kind of special self defense ammo right out of the box.

 

[flatwins]

Warning! This is a very dangerous road on which you are about to embark. There is no turning back. S&W has changed their numbering system several times over the years but the basic J frame is the same. There are some hammer differences with the various models- Some are normal exposed hammers, others are shrouded while some Js have a totally enclosed hammer and are thus double action only. Personally (though I don't own one), I like the old school model 38. Not pretty, but a good compromise in a carry gun. They still make it today but with the @@##$ lock. It's known as the 438 or 638, depending on finish.

 

[mmcbeat]

There are a lot of them out there so they can be purchased at fairly reasonable prices. In my opinion, with today's .38 spec. ammo, there is no need to go the .357 mag route. A 442/642 would serve you well. For self defense, I suggest you take the time to find one with no internal lock. Not range guns, strictly up close and personal but they are dependable and simple.

 

[bulbboy]

a 642/442 or the new Ruger LCR are all great pocket or ankle carry revolvers. You will love any of them!

 

[mmchambers06]

Have you shot a snubby w/ +P loads? To some (like me), they are difficult to shoot well. It grouped very well off the bench, but unsupported was a different story....granted this could have all been remedied by a lot of practice, but I ended up going to auto route and currently carry a Kahr CW9. Long story short, I didn't find the J-frame suited me well.

If I were in the market right now, I'd get a 442. Bud's has a pretty decent price on these:

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/21_39_72/products_id/26306

In the last year and a half, the prices on these little guys has risen quite a bit. When I first went looking over a year ago, Academy sold 642s for $349.99. Not any more...

 

[NikatKimber]

My wife has a 642. It's rated .38 +P, and that's about ideal for that size. Granted, if you are willing to suffer the recoil and still practice considerably with full house .357s like you would be carrying, go for the .357, but most people won't, and I don't think you should buy a .357, carry with .357, but almost never practice with .357.

The J frame size and sights require practice to master. They are not like the larger revolvers that tend to allow even novice shooters (or new to revolvers) to get good groups. If you want to make good hits quickly with a J frame you will have to practice considerably.

Now, about the different guns....

The first number of the 3 numbered models:
4** = black, 6** = silver. These guns feature aluminum frames, and stainless steel barrel and cylinder. 3** = scandium frame, titanium cylinder and barrel with SS rifled insert.

If the model number is only two digits, then the barrel and cylinder are blued steel, and the frame can be either steel or aluminum.


36 - all blued steel construction, SA/DA, .38 spl (or +P on later guns, will be marked as such on barrel).
60 - all stainless steel construction, SA/DA, .38 spl (or +P on later guns, will be marked as such on barrel). Also available in .357 Mag
*37 - alloy frame, SA/DA, .38 spl (or +P on later guns, will be marked as such on barrel). available in original two digit, or 6** trim, and 3** trim.
*42 - ally frame, fully enclosed, DAO, .38 spl (or +P on later guns, will be marked as such on barrel). available in 4** trim, 6** trim, and 3** trim.
*40 - steel or alloy frame, fully enclosed, DAO, .357 mag. available as a 6**, but this instead denotes all SS construction for this model, or as typical 3** trim (scandium/titanium).
*38 - alloy frame, shrouded hammer, SA/DA, .38 spl (or +P on later guns, will be marked as such on barrel). available in original two digit, 4** trim and 6** trim.
*49 - all blued steel construction, shrouded hammer, SA/DA, .38 spl


I'm sure I'm missing some, but that should get you started.

 

[BigRed82]

Thank you gents! Very helpful information.

All yesterday evening and this morning I've been thinking about how exactly I'd manage pocket carry, and I gotta ask, where do you put all of your other pocket stuff?

For me, only back pocket carry can really be an option. Phone takes up left front pocket. Keys, lip balm, flashlight, and clipped knife take up right pocket. Wallet takes up a back pocket. That leaves me with one back pocket. I guess if someone was threatening me and they wanted my wallet, having a pocket gun in my right back pocket would be a good place for it. But then you're sitting on the thing all day long.

So where and how do you guys carry these things?

And then the back pocket issue got me to thinking about some other things... Would an auto like a MK9 be better (tougher?) for the back pocket where you are sitting on it than a gun with a cylinder?

What say you?

 

[NikatKimber]

I think most people, and I know my father in law carries this way, it's front right pocket, so you'd have to reorganize everything.

I can't do it. I don't have any pants that pocket carry will work with.

 

[mmcbeat]

Not sure about your line of work and associated "dress code". I am a big fan of cargo pants (and shorts) on the week end.