Reloading tumbler replacement

[Tin Star Firearms]

The motor has seized mid tumble of some .357 magnum. I’ll run it by a shop here in town but the repair might eclipse the replacement cost.

 

[SPDguns]

Doesn't Dillon have a lifetime warranty?

 

[Chris Harrison]

I've used a Frankford wet tumbler for years. Last year I ditched the steel pins and started using Brass Juice. The brass looks great, very clean and shiny. But no polish or lube on them. So I put a bit of lube on everything including pistol brass. If I don't the brass tends to be a bit sticky in the dies and it slows things down. But otherwise this is the best cleaning solution I've ever used in 30+ years of rerloading.

 

[dlbleak]

I've used a Frankford wet tumbler for years. Last year I ditched the steel pins and started using Brass Juice. The brass looks great, very clean and shiny. But no polish or lube on them. So I put a bit of lube on everything including pistol brass. If I don't the brass tends to be a bit sticky in the dies and it slows things down. But otherwise this is the best cleaning solution I've ever used in 30+ years of rerloading.

Hey Chris, welcome to OSA. Thanks for the info. I had to do a quick search on the brass juice. I’m looking for something new and it sounds promising. If anyone wants to look at some YouTube vids, there’s some out there too.
https://www.thereloadingstation.com/products/brass-juice-case-wash

 

[Jeeper90]

My Dillon Precision CV-500 tumbler has given up after 25+ years of heavy use. Is anyone using anything they would recommend over a new Dillon?

(I have sent a warranty question but I am guessing I know the answer)

Andrew

Dillon replaced mine with the 2000 for free.

 

[RedHawk357Mag]

I had my Dillon rebuilt by Dillon when the motor went south. Apparently there was a problem with the original motor, that caused longevity issues. They pretty much promised that the rebuild would out last me. It was somewhat costly to do but that thing has been running extremely well since its trip to the Mother ship. It's only money, and I ain't buying primers so there is that. Good luck. BTW if you want to go wet tumble the Rebel Extreme 17 is a tank of a wet tumbler. A 9mm case of citric acid and a dollop of Armor All car soap or McGuire car soap with four pounds of pins and water and about four hundred cases cleans really well. The soap makes the cases glide through the resizing dies better than Dawn.

For dry tumble used dryer sheets quartered, a capful of Nufinish, maybe a cap full of Mineral spirts, run tumbler with additives for 15 or twenty minutes without brass, then add brass does a fine job. Zilla lizard bedding makes fine tumble media. Little dusty but four or five runs with quartered used dryer sheets will suck it up.

 

[okietom]

Go wet, you wont.regret. I have wet and dry. Forty year old Lyman Turbo vibratory and a Thumlers tumbler for wet. There are few bad choices if any. Get the pretty one. The one the catches your eye. Harbor frieght sell them too.

 

[R D Harmon]

I have a Lyman Turbo tumbler I have been using since late 70s. still runs good.
It came with a big bowl and a smaller bowl. I have been thinking about trying to do wet in the smaller bowl, if it dont leak.

 

[thor447]

For what it's worth, I've never had a problem with leakage using the Lyman Cyclone tumblers.

I am currently in the bit of a quandary regarding the cleaning of my brass. Since I've gone to wet tumbling, my brass comes out as clean and shiny as the day it was new (especially after following the cleaning recipe provided by another OSA'er). I just recently installed a new bullet feeder. The issue I have with that now is that I'm getting some serious sticking on my power through expander when loading straight wall pistol brass. The lack of any carbon inside the cases is causing some issues with my new expander being used with the in conjunction with the bullet feeder. I've taken the expander out and polished it to the nth degree, but it still causes major hang-up problems. I do not want to lube the inside of my brass, as I've seen others talk about online. Since my brass is 'too clean', I just attempted to tumble some 9mm for about 45 minutes, with zero SS pins. The outside of the brass still came out very clean. The inside is pretty clean, with a slight layer of carbon still remaining. I think this will be the ticket moving forward. The only downside I see is that the primer pockets are not perfectly clean like they would've been had they been tumbled with SS pins, but they are still perfectly serviceable. An upside is that the hassle of separating the pins from the brass after tumbling is no longer an issue!

 

[AKmoose]

I had my Dillon rebuilt by Dillon when the motor went south. Apparently there was a problem with the original motor, that caused longevity issues. They pretty much promised that the rebuild would out last me. It was somewhat costly to do but that thing has been running extremely well since its trip to the Mother ship. It's only money, and I ain't buying primers so there is that. Good luck. BTW if you want to go wet tumble the Rebel Extreme 17 is a tank of a wet tumbler. A 9mm case of citric acid and a dollop of Armor All car soap or McGuire car soap with four pounds of pins and water and about four hundred cases cleans really well. The soap makes the cases glide through the resizing dies better than Dawn.

For dry tumble used dryer sheets quartered, a capful of Nufinish, maybe a cap full of Mineral spirts, run tumbler with additives for 15 or twenty minutes without brass, then add brass does a fine job. Zilla lizard bedding makes fine tumble media. Little dusty but four or five runs with quartered used dryer sheets will suck it up.

A second on the rebel, shinier than new. Makes seating primers soooo much easier.