He's correct.Seems too easy? Is that really all it is and the proper way to do it? Not trying to question your input, just clarifying.
He's correct.Seems too easy? Is that really all it is and the proper way to do it? Not trying to question your input, just clarifying.
They don't make the small panels anymore because folks were trying to save a buck and use them to wire their entire home with a 50-amp panel because it was cheaper, not knowing how to size the load for the home's requirements.Smallest panel is like 3x the size of what I think I need lol
https://www.menards.com/main/electr...760-c-6437.htm?tid=5411013594755742904&ipos=3
I see Ralphie's dad with this
I have read through the post and understand the question and the solution is easy to do but hard for me to explain. I would start with replacing the subpannel with a circuit breaker box as you stated. I purchased a Square D 100 amp, 6 space/12 circuit outside box from Home Depot last week for less than $45. Wire has gotten pretty expensive so I would use 14/2 with ground for the lights (on a seperate circuit) and any other circuit where I was NOT going to pull a lot of electricity. The 14/2 w/ground is good for up to 15 amps. If you are going to install refrigerators/freezeers I would put these on seperate circuits using 12/2 w/ground. The 12/2 w/ground is good for 20 amps. If you need to install outlets along a workbench area you can put up to 10 outlets on the same circuit if you want. One circuit for lighting, one for a freezer/refrigerator and one for outlets: this leaves 9 cuircits available for expansion to a welder, heater/ac, outsid outlets, etc. Again, this is easy to do but hard to explain. BTW, this is a 6 space box and if you use a single breaker for each space you will only have 6 circuits. To achieve the 12 circuit potential of the box you will have to use a double circuit breaker for each space. This box is still overkill for your applicationHave old electrical in a building, would like to do a basic rewire and convert (?) to grounded 3-prong. What the heck is involved in that?
I'm not doing it myself, but would like to know what's involved.
It has its own supply line from the meter and a fuse box with two fuses. I'd like to change to a breaker panel and again grounded circuits. I just need to run a few LED lights and some small stuff for reloading. Currently there's 3-4 ceiling lights and one outlet.
the size/capacity of your box is dependent upon the capacity of that big wire feeding it and I suspect it is not large enough to handle what your new box is rated -- if you are just connecting lights and 120v outlets you are probably fine. the stranded bare wire is the neutral and should also be connected to ground where it comes from [should be easy to check]. small portable heaters are fine on a 20amp circuit -- I use one in my reloading area all the time and that is what they are designed for.
You will need to check local and state electrical codes for your area before you do that. Most codes now require 2 rods 6’ apart and a minimum of 2” below the surface of the ground. A word of advice though, even if you don’t live somewhere that requires permits and inspection, build it per code anyway for future changes in requirements and safety.Drive a copper rod in the ground outside with no more 2 ft left above ground, connect a #8 solid copper wire to the rod and to the new panel inside, your grounded!!
As my oldest would say..... Why you bully me? =)
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