He's correct.
They don't make the small panels anymore because folks were trying to save a buck and use them to wire their entire home with a 50-amp panel because it was cheaper, not knowing how to size the load for the home's requirements.
I see Ralphie's dad with this
I have read through the post and understand the question and the solution is easy to do but hard for me to explain. I would start with replacing the subpannel with a circuit breaker box as you stated. I purchased a Square D 100 amp, 6 space/12 circuit outside box from Home Depot last week for less than $45. Wire has gotten pretty expensive so I would use 14/2 with ground for the lights (on a seperate circuit) and any other circuit where I was NOT going to pull a lot of electricity. The 14/2 w/ground is good for up to 15 amps. If you are going to install refrigerators/freezeers I would put these on seperate circuits using 12/2 w/ground. The 12/2 w/ground is good for 20 amps. If you need to install outlets along a workbench area you can put up to 10 outlets on the same circuit if you want. One circuit for lighting, one for a freezer/refrigerator and one for outlets: this leaves 9 cuircits available for expansion to a welder, heater/ac, outsid outlets, etc. Again, this is easy to do but hard to explain. BTW, this is a 6 space box and if you use a single breaker for each space you will only have 6 circuits. To achieve the 12 circuit potential of the box you will have to use a double circuit breaker for each space. This box is still overkill for your application
I concur
Do it right, the first time. Open walls mays it easy. C/H breaker box, 12/2 with ground.
You can never have too many outlets. I would have an outlet box every 4', on 3 walls and door, 4 boxes at bench. Plus a 220v outlet.
Cheaper to do it right, all at one time.
Do it right, the first time. Open walls mays it easy. C/H breaker box, 12/2 with ground.
You can never have too many outlets. I would have an outlet box every 4', on 3 walls and door, 4 boxes at bench. Plus a 220v outlet.
Cheaper to do it right, all at one time.
the size/capacity of your box is dependent upon the capacity of that big wire feeding it and I suspect it is not large enough to handle what your new box is rated -- if you are just connecting lights and 120v outlets you are probably fine. the stranded bare wire is the neutral and should also be connected to ground where it comes from [should be easy to check]. small portable heaters are fine on a 20amp circuit -- I use one in my reloading area all the time and that is what they are designed for.
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I agree with Duck Hunter on his layout. By current code any sub panel has to be fed with an insulated neutral and separate ground. Your bare center conductor is used as a combination ground/neutral system. You may be grandfathered as an existing dwelling so that may be OK. That's why new range and dryer plug are different today.
When you get you new panel, the box should have a separate loose, possibly green, bonding screw. This bonds the neutral block to the panel frame. This would not be used if you had two new separate wires. There should be a hole in the neutral block that aligns with a threaded hole on the back panel. Use this screw to electrically combine them.This provides continuity because you are only using the old bare wire for both a ground and neutral.
The wire coming is a pretty good size. Look in your main panel to see what it is fused at. That will show you the amp limitations of you new panel.
The original wiring should already have a ground inside the Romex. They didn't include it for a short period after WW2. If they didn't just clip it off, you may be able to use what you have. The down side is it's all probably 14 gauge wire as they never anticipated back then all the electrical equipment being used today. Upgrading to 12 wire is preferable for receptacles and other work loads.
Good luck and when in doubt, ask the question.
When you get you new panel, the box should have a separate loose, possibly green, bonding screw. This bonds the neutral block to the panel frame. This would not be used if you had two new separate wires. There should be a hole in the neutral block that aligns with a threaded hole on the back panel. Use this screw to electrically combine them.This provides continuity because you are only using the old bare wire for both a ground and neutral.
The wire coming is a pretty good size. Look in your main panel to see what it is fused at. That will show you the amp limitations of you new panel.
The original wiring should already have a ground inside the Romex. They didn't include it for a short period after WW2. If they didn't just clip it off, you may be able to use what you have. The down side is it's all probably 14 gauge wire as they never anticipated back then all the electrical equipment being used today. Upgrading to 12 wire is preferable for receptacles and other work loads.
Good luck and when in doubt, ask the question.
You will need to check local and state electrical codes for your area before you do that. Most codes now require 2 rods 6’ apart and a minimum of 2” below the surface of the ground. A word of advice though, even if you don’t live somewhere that requires permits and inspection, build it per code anyway for future changes in requirements and safety.
As my oldest would say..... Why you bully me? =)
I don't like to get into these types of threads anymore. There are a couple people who know what they are doing and then you get too many opinions and arguments from armchair warriors contradicting and muddying up the waters.
Before I can offer advice I'd want to know... "why does the OP want a grounding conductor"
@adamsredlines PM me any question you like or even your phone number. I'll do my best to point you in a good direction.
