Also with your temp control problem you mentioned, and fixed after shutting off truck sounds like a temperature blend door actuator concern. A lot of times when these sensors fail, they will send a bad position signal back to the control head. When the control head gets the bad signal is basically loses the position it thinks the sensor is in and shuts down the temp adjusment. Shutting off and restarting the truck basically is re-booting the control head (kind of like restarting a computer that locked up). This might be a secondary problem but I would suspect you have an actuator problem too.
I'd recommend just taking it to the garage. In fact, don't mess with small-time repair garages. Just go straight to the dealer.
They know the quirks of the car better than anyone else. Pay the man and save your time and hassle.
My Honda AC wasn't working well (few years ago), so I asked one of my friends that used to be a GM dealer mechanic. ...He had the tools, and tons more experience (on AC) than me.
He hooked up the gauges, ran the car, added freon, and the AC went from bad to worse.
I ended up just taking it to the Honda dealer, paid my money and got it fixed. It was the best money spent.
Now, you can try laying blame on my GM mechanic friend, but the point is...
Even when you're experienced with the systems, it can still 'not-work-out'. If you're NOT experienced (or don't have tools) - then your even worse off.
You'll be out all your time, money (tools), hassle, and sweat - ...all while trying to figure out the next 'CHEAP' way to fix it.
Pay the man, get it fixed, and enjoy the AC.
Best of luck.
They know the quirks of the car better than anyone else. Pay the man and save your time and hassle.
My Honda AC wasn't working well (few years ago), so I asked one of my friends that used to be a GM dealer mechanic. ...He had the tools, and tons more experience (on AC) than me.
He hooked up the gauges, ran the car, added freon, and the AC went from bad to worse.
I ended up just taking it to the Honda dealer, paid my money and got it fixed. It was the best money spent.
Now, you can try laying blame on my GM mechanic friend, but the point is...
Even when you're experienced with the systems, it can still 'not-work-out'. If you're NOT experienced (or don't have tools) - then your even worse off.
You'll be out all your time, money (tools), hassle, and sweat - ...all while trying to figure out the next 'CHEAP' way to fix it.
Pay the man, get it fixed, and enjoy the AC.
Best of luck.
The A/C in my 2010 Honda with ONLY 20,000 miles DIED yesterday. I mean it flat quit; all it would do is blow hot air. Took it to the Honda dealer this morning...and it looks like a rock or something got kicked back, on the road maybe, and knocked a hole in some little condenser unit behind the grill. Not a factory defect or a bad part, so it's not covered by my warranty. The A/C quit because a part is damaged. Bottom line: It's gonna cost me $600 bucks to get it fixed. What do ya do? It's freakin'110 out there and I have to wear a coat and tie a lot to work...gotta have A/C so I'm now out $600.
Well crap...
If I didn't know how to do the work myself.....
Before I shelled out 600 smackers on a new condenser coil from the dealership I get a quote from another shop. The main part is only about 100 bucks if your not hell bent on OEM. add another 100 at the most for freon and a new drier
lots of advice ... there's been bad and good advice already given. someone not experienced in HVAC would have a hard time telling which one is correct.
4play is right on the money. it's worth reading twice.
HVAC work is very equipment intensive, combined with knowing specific model quirks.
definitely one of those times, taking it to a pro is best.
not necessarily to dealership. where you get nailed big time is cost of new OEM parts. A job that cost say $275 at a reputable mechanic, becomes $1,000+ at the dealership.
right now the best information is a referral to an honest mechanic in your area.
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below is how I would fix it
1. since I'm not familiar with that model. I'd find a forum that specifically deals in Tahoe repairs. all the common issues related to AC will be probably sticky. chase down all common issues first before doing below. Some Pro's will pay for an AllData subscription.
2. start by doing a basic check to see when/if compressor is coming on.
3. finding the leak... pump down system with a recovery unit.
4. pump it full of nitrogen, test with soapy water. any leaks will show bubbles. slow leaks gets a shot of refrigerant followed by a sniffer with heated LED tip.
5. fix leaks if any
6. attach a micron gauge with a vacuum pump. if system holds at least 450 microns after it stabilizes, then your system is fairly tight.
7. look up spec's on system. then meter exact charge in oz in a Yellow Jacket Dial-a-charge. older vehicle using R-12 will be changed over to Hotshot. unless you've got a stash of R-12.
8. load exact charge into system. then start up vehicle to test compressor for proper cycling. check inside duct temps to verify. do a quick sniffer test after removing gauges. just in case
above is how I would do fix a leak and get a proper charge installed ... others will do it differently.
if a compressor is needed, procedure is slightly different. same if a hose is leaking and needs replaced... etc. etc. many possible problems like clogged fixed orifice tubes.
4play is right on the money. it's worth reading twice.
HVAC work is very equipment intensive, combined with knowing specific model quirks.
definitely one of those times, taking it to a pro is best.
not necessarily to dealership. where you get nailed big time is cost of new OEM parts. A job that cost say $275 at a reputable mechanic, becomes $1,000+ at the dealership.
right now the best information is a referral to an honest mechanic in your area.
-----------------------
below is how I would fix it
1. since I'm not familiar with that model. I'd find a forum that specifically deals in Tahoe repairs. all the common issues related to AC will be probably sticky. chase down all common issues first before doing below. Some Pro's will pay for an AllData subscription.
2. start by doing a basic check to see when/if compressor is coming on.
3. finding the leak... pump down system with a recovery unit.
4. pump it full of nitrogen, test with soapy water. any leaks will show bubbles. slow leaks gets a shot of refrigerant followed by a sniffer with heated LED tip.
5. fix leaks if any
6. attach a micron gauge with a vacuum pump. if system holds at least 450 microns after it stabilizes, then your system is fairly tight.
7. look up spec's on system. then meter exact charge in oz in a Yellow Jacket Dial-a-charge. older vehicle using R-12 will be changed over to Hotshot. unless you've got a stash of R-12.
8. load exact charge into system. then start up vehicle to test compressor for proper cycling. check inside duct temps to verify. do a quick sniffer test after removing gauges. just in case
above is how I would do fix a leak and get a proper charge installed ... others will do it differently.
if a compressor is needed, procedure is slightly different. same if a hose is leaking and needs replaced... etc. etc. many possible problems like clogged fixed orifice tubes.
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CY, you sound like you do this for a living... wanna work on my truck... TODAY? 
I'm willing to pay fair money to get this fixed... coupla hundred is doable. The dealership is out of the question, no way I'm dropping that kind of cash. And every single solitary dealer I've ever been to has treated me like ****, so screw 'em.
I'm willing to pay fair money to get this fixed... coupla hundred is doable. The dealership is out of the question, no way I'm dropping that kind of cash. And every single solitary dealer I've ever been to has treated me like ****, so screw 'em.
I hear ya, but time is money, and I have been off work recuperating from surgery for almost 2 weeks. I can't screw around with it anymore and spend another couple days so I am just gonna get it fixed.
I had the same problem with my '04 civic 2 years ago. The condenser is close to the road and has very little protection. It is a very poor design IMO. They could use some sort of grille to keep the larger damaging debris out of the condenser in my car. I was actually hoping that was the problem again this time, but nope, dead compressor. I'd raise hell at the dealership until they fixed it. I would have on mine if it weren't out of warranty when it happened. come to think of it, this it the 3rd year in a row I've had A/C problems in at least one of our vehicles. That pisses me off even worse.
it will be winter by the time all this advise is done.
