Anyone ever use amsoil in their ride

[HiredHand]

It's been a couple years but I'm sure it was the 20-50 for the V's, the temp really surprised me and sold me on the Amsoil.

It makes sense considering oil plays a major part in engine cooling.

 

[Hoorayebay]

Its good stuff but its overpriced. Mobil 1 gets my vote.

 

[UnSafe]

FWIW, Atwoods carries the more popular weights of Amsoil. I recall the 20W50 for V Twins ran $10.xx/ Qt. I run Mobil 1 in my '02 HD TC88(95"). Happy enough with Rotella 15W40 in everything else.

 

[Shoot Summ]

I don't think people who try Amsoil for a little bit and then go back to whatever are seeing the most benefit from using Amsoil products. Just my 2 cents.

The only time I have seen a result from Amsoil was on high performance two strokes, I was 100% sold on the results from reduced piston wear(validated). Based on that I ran it exclusively in a number of vehicles, most were traded off before I ran them to high mileage so I never saw the benefit if there was any. I did run a '94 Chevy to 285k miles on regular old Castrol changed every 3k miles.

In 2 different GM's the front diff developed a seal leak after I changed to Amsoil, not sure that the Amsoil caused it, but they both did it.

Oil is almost an emotional subject for many, I used to buy into the hype, now I realize there really isn't that much of a difference to justify the additional cost, just my opinion based on years of experience.

 

[dennishoddy]

I just bough5t a nissan titan and it has had it ran threw it it's whole life about 70000 miles . I was thinking of changing it because it is hard to find were i live would like your thoughts

I've used valvoline 10W-30 for 278,000 miles now in the Tacoma. Don't think I'll change.

 

[Shadowrider]

The only time I have seen a result from Amsoil was on high performance two strokes, I was 100% sold on the results from reduced piston wear(validated). Based on that I ran it exclusively in a number of vehicles, most were traded off before I ran them to high mileage so I never saw the benefit if there was any. I did run a '94 Chevy to 285k miles on regular old Castrol changed every 3k miles.

In 2 different GM's the front diff developed a seal leak after I changed to Amsoil, not sure that the Amsoil caused it, but they both did it.

Oil is almost an emotional subject for many, I used to buy into the hype, now I realize there really isn't that much of a difference to justify the additional cost, just my opinion based on years of experience.

Here is the justification for the additional cost:

I did run a '94 Chevy to 285k miles on regular old Castrol changed every 3k miles.

285k/3k = you changed your oil 95 times!

My car has 240k on it, I now run mine 15k so using the same math:
240k/15k = I've changed my oil 16 times.

Who do you wanna bet has saved money here?

Lets find out:

My oil changes cost an average of $60 over the time I've had my car so:
16 oil changes x $60 = $960

For your example let's use the super cheapo quick change price of $20

95 oil changes x $20 = $1900

So if I adjust my mileage up just so we are looking at apples to apples I have:
19 oil changes x $60 = $1140

This is the thing that most people just don't look at. They see that it costs more to purchase and blow it off. It's the total opposite on cost of use.


Now we wont even talk about the added fuel mileage I get...

 

[HiredHand]

It might be anecdotal but I've heard of Amsoil users who have never drained their engine oil. They just change filters at the reccomended interval and add new oil to replace what remained in the filter.

 

[HiPower]

Never use full synthetic oil until after the first oil change.

True to a point, they are seated fully within the first 50 or so miles. There are exceptions, however.

I don't care much about what Europe does with the exception of their auto manufacturing and the quality of their production.

Based on the reliability records of Mercedes, BMW and Audi, I wouldn't use them as a gauge. None of the 3 get very high marks in this regard.

Engine tolerances are so much closer than they were 20 years ago that it is necessary to use lighter weight oils to get between the engine parts. That is why we now use 5W and 10W oils. In days of old it was common to run 40 and 50 weigt oils in high performance Detroit Iron. Now days if you do that you will hear unfriendly noises from under the hood as you starve your engine for it's life-blood.

Not true at all. Engine tolerances haven't changed hardly at all in the last 60 years. The reason you see all these super light weight oils today as factory fill is driven solely by CAFE standards(Corporate Average Fuel Economy - something the government cares about), and nothing else. With the better formulations in ALL oils today, the initial start up lubrication is more than adequately addressed by the oil's ability to provide boundary layer lubrication. Boundary layer is the lubrication provided with everything at rest, and no force fed oil. This is what is provided by the oil's additive package.

It is really hard to go wrong if you use any major brand of synthetic oil and there are several companies that will warranty your engine for oil failures if you register with them. Most of the warranties require very careful documentation to make a claim.

Sorta, there are some synthetics that are not much better than OK, and some that are stellar. The same holds true with non-synthetics. The problem is knowing which is which. As to documentation, absolutely true for warranty purposes. This is why it's crucial to have used oil analysis records if you contemplate going to extended drain intervals.

Bottom line follow the manufactures guidelines and enjoy your ride.

If you don't have it analyzed, absolutely true. Make sure you note what the manufacturer says about "extreme conditions" in the owners manual, as well.

 

[Kelly Drown]

I used Amsoil in the car I raced for a number of years and never had a problem. Even with the Amsoil I changed my oil around 2500-3500 miles depending on how it looked. Hallett Speedway was probably the hardest on the engine making the oil turn dark quickly but you're either standing on the gas pedal or standing on the brake with very little in between.

Now I use Mobil1 Synthetic and change around 3500. I look at it like it's cheap insurance towards the longevity of my vehicles.

 

[okdzb]

You guys that are talking about oil analysis .. you doin' it yourself somehow? Taking it somewhere?
Recommendations?