The lab I use is Polaris. The really nice thing about analysis is being able to track trends over time, and Polaris provides the graphs. If you really want to flush your system, you should use a dedicated flushing agent for the job. You run it for 2-3 days prior to changing your oil. By the way, if you were judging your soot loading by how black the oil was, it's not really useful to do that. Soot is something for the lab to look at, along with fuel dilution, TBN and a whole host of other things. If you want the whole story, PM me.
I've used Amsoil products off and on for many years. Originally got hooked on the 2 stroke oil, had noticeable wear reduction on some hard core two stroke motors. I'm not convinced it is any better for the price than most of the synthetics out there for auto and light truck use. I now run Mobil 1 or Syntec with a high grade filter to the Manufacturer's recommended change intervals. I used to be a 3K guy with Dino oils, but have no issue going 7.5K on synthetic. It's easy to waste alot of $$'s on oil.....
I used it in my turbo'd car a while back. Ran amsoil synthetic in the transmission. I tried the engine oil and it didn't perform as I wanted to I went with mobile 1 and it worked well.
Man thanks alot for all the help guys you must be some real oil monkeys lol no really thanks . I went and bought 5-30 amsoil today and a k&n oil filter was not to shocked about the price of the oil but if i found a dealer that sold out of his house i could get it cheaper. What surprized me was the filter 15 bucks wow.
how hard is it to become a dealer and how much of a discount can you get.
I use nothing but amsoil, Both of my trucks run like new! My last truck had 179,000 miles when I sold it and it ran great. Still had real good compression and was very clean inside the valve covers>
Amsoil is a pretty good quality oil. Years ago I used it in a Triumph Trident 750. It was factory recommended. Never had any problems. I now prefer full synthetic and use it in everything that requires oil in a sump. Never use full synthetic oil until after the first oil change. You run the risk of never having the rings fully seat. This can cause loss of compression and oil consumption. I don't care much about what Europe does with the exception of their auto manufacturing and the quality of their production. Any fine car from across the pond uses full synthetic for the purpose of less disposal waste. The reason for less disposal waste is the length of time the oil can remain in the crankcase and still provide lubrication that will be superior to regular oil. Most German cars are now on a 15,000 mile frequency. My mother-in-law's Buick tells her to change oil at about the 12,000 mark. So even GM is attempting to do better. It too uses full synthetic oil.
Engine tolerances are so much closer than they were 20 years ago that it is necessary to use lighter weight oils to get between the engine parts. That is why we now use 5W and 10W oils. In days of old it was common to run 40 and 50 weigt oils in high performance Detroit Iron. Now days if you do that you will hear unfriendly noises from under the hood as you starve your engine for it's life-blood.
It is really hard to go wrong if you use any major brand of synthetic oil and there are several companies that will warranty your engine for oil failures if you register with them. Most of the warranties require very careful documentation to make a claim. (long for good luck)
Bottom line follow the manufactures guidelines and enjoy your ride.
Engine tolerances are so much closer than they were 20 years ago that it is necessary to use lighter weight oils to get between the engine parts. That is why we now use 5W and 10W oils. In days of old it was common to run 40 and 50 weigt oils in high performance Detroit Iron. Now days if you do that you will hear unfriendly noises from under the hood as you starve your engine for it's life-blood.
It is really hard to go wrong if you use any major brand of synthetic oil and there are several companies that will warranty your engine for oil failures if you register with them. Most of the warranties require very careful documentation to make a claim. (long for good luck)
Bottom line follow the manufactures guidelines and enjoy your ride.
Many synthetics out there more available than Amsoil but any synthetic oil is better than conventional oil. Also if you want a good filter at a good price try a Pureone from Purolator. I run it with Synpower by Valvoline for 6k between changes.
I was a dealer for several years..Not much of a discount, Great products though, I still run amsoil injector oil in my bass boat and use amsoil fuel treatment in my diesel.
